Cant dislodge steering wheel.

Kiwi Will · Post by **Kiwi Will** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 9:47 am

Hello there.
1979 990
Im having trouble getting the steering wheel to come off the shaft. I haven't a puller to fit over it. I have tried to belt the living daylights out of it (that plastic even being nearly 40 yrs old has held together!) but it still won't budge.
Has anyone got an idea how one might be able to remove it?

Cheers
Will

Scooby · Post by **Scooby** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 10:01 am

1. Soak some WD40 into the top for days.
2. If you haven't got a puller then make one.
3. Screw a nut back on the shaft as far as you can leaving a thread or two showing, tension up the puller, then tap the end of it.

I think it's a Woodruff key on the shaft.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:01 pm

Yes, all Selectamatics up to the 90 series had a keyed shaft and it's that ************ of a key that holds it on so tight.

erkki · Post by **erkki** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:54 pm

WD 40 works if it can penetrate betweenthe surfaces. However, there are liquides which are made for peneterating to any gap which exicst.Soorry, I cant give commericial brands, but whatever is made for liquid penetrating testing, will work. A mate of mine keeps on driving by old mercedes and he said that there is no problem in opening bolts when using LPT things to loosen them.

RGDS

johnh · Post by **johnh** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 4:13 pm

I had the same trouble a few months ago and, if i remember rightly, the thing that worked in the end was backing off the nut(s) under the steering wheel which will force the wheel off fairly easily. i didn't manage to shift mine with pullers as they would just pull lumps off the plastic and i didn't have one that would fit in any more of a suitable way to stop that happening.

The problem you will face though, is to find a spanner that is 38mm (check that to be sure) but also thin enough to fit in the available gap. What i did was get a bit of 6mm plate and grind a slot to make a thin spanner and bingo, off came the wheel.

hope this helps.

jetmech98 · Post by **jetmech98** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 4:46 pm

The best liquid penetrant I have found is AeroKroil. A close secound would be Mouse Milk or LPS 2. I am not sure if these products are available in the UK though you might search for them.

johnh · Post by **johnh** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 5:37 pm

If the Mouse Milk don't work you could try Cat Milk after to get it out

johnh · Post by **johnh** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 5:38 pm

Sorry.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 6:00 pm

You can make up a steering wheel puller, a large thick steel washer a bit bigger than the steering wheel centre and cut out one side to allow it to go over the shaft, you need 2 of these, one to slide under one side and the other for the other side to complete the circle as it were, drill a hole through both washers, one hole in each, length of bar x 2 threaded bottom end with a nut, put said rods up through holes in washers and the top end, inch or so wide steel plate, drilled each side in line for each rod to go up throug, larger hole in the niddle and have a hard steel bolt ground to fit the tapered 'hollow' in the top of the shaft, nut under the plate, hold bolt head with spanner and turn the nut upwards. Steering wheel should then pop off. I hope all this was fairly easy to follow!

Kiwi Will · Post by **Kiwi Will** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:15 am

Hey, these above proves it! Tis time to give my head a rest and just get others to sort my problems.

Never heard of mouse milk. (or cat milk) have you fellas been on the turps? AeroKroil? nup, ain't heard of that either.
Done the WD40 trick but to no avail. Powerrabbits suggestion sounds a good-un. I'll give that a crack sometime when things ease off. Thanks guys.

slider · Post by **slider** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 12:26 pm

HOWES penetrating & lubricating spray has never let me down but it's getting harder to find

dfoss · Post by **dfoss** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:31 pm

Cellulose thinner is pretty good too - and more likely to be kicking around the shed somewhere.
I knew a guy who bought an old bailer - completely rusted up, or so it appeared - at an auction. All winter he wandered round it periodically and soaked it in diesel. Next year he gentled it into life and we used it for years. Diesel and patience!!!

john1694 · Post by **john1694** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 6:02 pm

Diesel can work wonders - no doubt about that. My cleaning tank was full of it for years, and I frequently used it as an "easing/cleaning" medium. Certainly I used it in abundance for cleaning engines/trans/hyd components before and during reassembly.
Cheap too! ( Relatively ).

Madders · Post by **Madders** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:33 pm

boys ! boys!! calm down!!

if pullers and big ************ hammers won't move it, no amount of 'squirt' will have any effect.

With the 770 after all the abuse in me the sod wouldn't budge, it then dawned on me that the key was 'cockeyed' in the keyway...If I'd had the drill with me at the time I could have drilled it out, in the end all I had was the grinder and as It was a cack wheel it got hurt.

It'll be the key on the ************....sort that out and off she pops (probably into your teeth!!!)

good luck.

joeproctor · Post by **joeproctor** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:47 pm

are you trying to salvage the wheel or are you going to change it any way,
undo the nut but donot remove when it cracks so could your teeth!then welt it with the biggest hammer you can wear a full face screen/visor

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