990 project

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990newbie
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2018 6:48 pm
Location: South wales

990 project

Post by 990newbie » Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:04 pm

Good evening all,
Ive just started on my latest project, my first DB, so please go easy :D

I came accross this 990 on a dairy farm in mid wales, still being used daily up untill about 2 years ago.

As you can see she needs a bit of TLC.
What can you all tell me about this model? Any thing i should look out for?
Cab,transmission,hydraulics,....... any help apprieciated.
Is this a "Q cab"? A lot of conflicting info online.

Also, best place to source a set of arches and rear wheel rims.

Ohh, sorry for the tinsel😁😁(kids....)
Cheers all
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Gard
Posts: 236
Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 2:25 pm
Location: Fairfax Vermont USA

Re: 990 project

Post by Gard » Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:45 pm

Welcome, looks like a good project, best trick I have is look up the part number on the caseih parts website. Then put that number in your favorite web browser.
Get the proper owners manual and plan on changing all the fluids and filters.

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ollek
Posts: 3741
Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:20 pm
Location: South West Finland

Re: 990 project

Post by ollek » Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:43 am

The cab looks to be a Secura S74, called "De-lux cab in the UK. The cab pictured looks to be the Low profile version. The S74 with cab heater in the roof was fitted to tractors exported to Scandinavia, as the Q-cab and in many cases also the Low profile S74 was not suitable for these countries. The reason was mainly that the Q-cab had no roof hatch, too narrow doors and the cab heater was all to ineffective. The heater in the Low profile S74 was also too ineffective and there was no roof hatch in the Low profile cab.

philedge
Posts: 227
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 11:27 am
Location: Chester UK

Re: 990 project

Post by philedge » Mon Jan 14, 2019 10:05 am

Try ebay for secondhand parts but watch prices for a while to know what the going rate is. Unless youve got a reliable service history, Id start by changing all fluids and filters and flushing first if the original fluid looks really neglected.

Some tinsel round the top of the cab would look good too:)
'66 880 Selectamatic rat.

blissakpo
Posts: 59
Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:15 pm
Location: IRAQ

Re: 990 project

Post by blissakpo » Mon Jan 14, 2019 4:13 pm

One of the few Tractor Breakers I know of :

Pocock Tractor Spares - Richard Pocock, Manor Farm, Berwick St John, Shaftesbury, Dorset SP7 0EX - Telephone: 01747 828 272

They have 36” rear wheels for a 990 Part number 4059 at 250 Plus VAT Photo shows 2 wheels I assume it’s for the two give him a ring – But as with all second hand tractor parts I would advise a visit don’t order them over the phone and have them shipped as that can be a total waste of money.

Also I agree with philedge about the tinsel....and maybe some fairy lights for next year

blissakpo
Posts: 59
Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:15 pm
Location: IRAQ

Re: 990 project

Post by blissakpo » Mon Jan 14, 2019 4:17 pm

I tried to post this earlier but it seems to have disappeared into the ether......

Welcome - You will have some fun with that.

This Forum is the ideal place to start. There are some very knowledgeable people here who are very happy to share info.

Find the Engine and Chassis Number on the tractor it will help you source the correct bits. Check those against the V5 Registration Document (If you have one) If you are really lucky they will matchJ

If you search this website for Haynes Manual you will find a link to all sorts of useful info. like parts catalogue and workshop/ operators manual. I also like to have a hard copy. The parts catalogue is particularly useful as you can see how bits go together and what it would have looked like when it was new.

Do a full service, replace the filters and the engine/gearbox oil with the correct grade. The Gearbox/Hydraulics use the same oil, if it is milky white you have water in it. Replace the gear stick boots if they are perished and get caps to blank off any external hydraulic connectors that don’t have them fitted as these are the two main sources of water in the oil. Be very fussy connecting anything to your hydraulics that may be contaminated with water. Oil is expensive and you need lots of it so you don’t want to change it outside of service intervals.

When changing the engine oil stick your finger up the plug hole - If its full of snot it might pay you to drop the sump and clean that out with some old diesel.

The hydraulic filter is located under the gearbox in a circular housing – get a good one from a reputable source (DBPL) and replace the gasket at the same time. Once you have finished only put a couple of pints of oil back in to start with and check for leaks – It’s a pain having to drain it all back out to fix the leak – I know been there done that.

Run it for a while and have some fun with it before tearing it apart, find out what needs fixing and then work out the things to attack first in a logical manner so you don’t end up stripping bits off more times than necessary and be prepared for a lot of botch jobs you will find. Farmers are notoriously proud of having short arms and deep pockets and are very inventive when it comes to saving moneyJ especially in South Wales – I know that’s where I’m based – If there be no stamp on this envelope it fell off in the post…..

The wings are available from David Brown Parts ltd, Barclay Williams are another good source of bits – The wheels you may struggle for, Bay of Fleas is a useful source provided you know what you are looking for but can be expensive with a lot of rubbish advertised, often erroneosly identified. Just because it says it will fit your tractor does not mean it willL

If you are looking to repaint don’t forget that aluminium parts need to be given an acid etched primer first or the subsequent coats won’t stay on for very long. I have had excellent results using Craftmaster Paints – they do an acid etch primer in aerosol can and a special undercoat/ topcoat paint formulated for tractors that can be sprayed or brushed on – If its brushed on add a couple of drops of their brushing additive and the results are very nearly the same as a spray gun unlike some paints available from the local agricultural merchants that look like they were put on with a spade and take months to dry.

DB’s are pretty much bullet proof provided they have been well serviced and looked after - Most problems tend to come from poor /nonexistent servicing and botch jobs done over a long hard working life.

Andy

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