990 Implematic and Selectamatic

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990nz
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Location: New Zealand

990 Implematic and Selectamatic

Post by 990nz » Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:32 am

Just picked a 990 Implematic with Loader slasher and grader blade for $2000 nz which works out about $890 pounds. Needs a bit of tlc few diesel leaks a leaky loader ram seal... oh and a dicky clutch.

Got a box load of goodies coming from the NZ tractor people at Agspares which includes filters, seals, tie rod ends, and various other bits, but they didn't have a replacement fuel bowl for this one, the one that sits under the right hand side by the gear selectors. Leaks a bit of diesel which i hope will just be a perished seal, but if its not and the bowl unit needs to replaced, is there another solution maybe changing the lift pump to a unit with a bowl like on the selectamatic and then just getting a new fuel line made up to fill the gap ?

Is it right for the loader to have to go all the way up before the hydraulics will go up or am I not selecting it properly. Its got the knob on the right and knob on the left . I've also got a repair manual on order for 990 implematic but I'm not sure if it will have hydraulic settings in it .

Drives ok except a bid of a shudder before taking off as it should. I guess we'll find out whats going on down there when we split it.

Probably should have finished the 990 selectamtic in the shed first.
Inherited this one from my father in law . came in two bits, the tractor with a blown engine , and a replacement engine on a pallet.
Set about fixing it, new clutch went in, replacement engine, and replacement front axle, connected all back up, fired up first pop! now for cosmetics!



Thanks!
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Guest

RE: 990 Implematic and Selectamatic

Post by Guest » Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:16 am

The glass sediment bowl and the rubber seal ring is the same as on the Series diesel Land Rovers and are AC Delco parts. The loader will raise before the lift arms but to use the lift arms independent of the loader you should raise the loader to where you want it and then close one of the taps on the left of the seat and open the other for the lift arms, this diverts the oil feed to one of the 3 'services', one is for tipping trailer or 'external' equipment and the other two are loader and lift arms. The clutch shudder sounds like the driven plate may be warped or there may be a rust area on the pressure plate if the tractor has been standing a while, it may cure itself with use and you may be able to make an adjustment, the worst scenario is that the clutch needs replacing. The manual that will cover all these issues and more, plus the white 990 and other models is the David Brown and later David Brown Case I@T manual.

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990nz
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Post by 990nz » Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:31 am

whats the best way to degrease these tractors? coat it in a degreaser and pressure wash it off ? would have to be careful around the electrics of course?

Im also having a bit of trouble getting the steering wheel off to remove the dash console cover on the selectamatic, ive been told it should be as easy has pull straight off but it seems like im missing something.
thanks

Guest

Post by Guest » Thu Nov 05, 2015 9:08 am

Degreasers are helpful, a reasonably good one is something called Jizer, used to degrease engines but if there's 50 years of build up of oil dirt and grease that's gone hard and crusty you may need several applications. A good hot steam clean will be as good as it will soften all the crud and will also remove all the loose paint.

The steering wheel is on a keyed tapered shaft and they stick like they've been welded on, you can get a proper steering wheel puller that has a thick ring on it instead of legs. A good several days application and soaking of penetrating fluid on the centre when you've removed the dome nut and the washer will help, don't use a hammer as you'll destroy the wheel or give the end of the column shaft a belting, you'll destroy the thread, you can screw on a thinner nut with the same thread, place a block of wood on top of it, get someone to hold the steering wheel with two hands and put pulling pressure on it and then give the block of wood a clout with a hammer but personally this would be a last resort.

JamesF
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Post by JamesF » Thu Nov 05, 2015 11:04 am

I have a really powerful industrial type steam cleaner and this removes everything right down to the paint if you're not careful. I don't use any chemical or detergent just the high pressure got water.

Iv struggled with steering wheels in the past , they're no problem if you're not worried about damaging them but if you're wanting to salvage the wheel it can be more difficult. Boiling water poured over the centre I'm told works but I have a steel wedge with a slot cut in it and I use this to wedge them off. It does scratch the plastic but it's underneath where it's not on show

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case-ih1594
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Post by case-ih1594 » Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:24 pm

re: steering wheel. (if possible) I have removed the box, and carefully aimed a hard blow to the nut, ideally using a heavy hammer, preferably copper, whilst holding the steering wheel - it should knock off, possibly with the first hit. If you slacken the nut a bit then the box will not fall on you feet. 8)

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mart1602
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Post by mart1602 » Mon Jan 25, 2016 7:11 pm

mr muscle oven cleaner is brill at cleaning engines,if you have a pound shop or better buys or similar you can get it quite cheap,it will take old paint off aswell.dont use on new paint or it will take the shine right off it

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990nz
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Post by 990nz » Fri Jan 29, 2016 5:22 am

Well finally , well almost finished the selectamatic , its off to get new wheels all round and re galv and paint the rims up and then I think Ill leave it there for a while , got all the lights ready to go back in once its back
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selecta1.jpg
selecta1.jpg (121.21 KiB) Viewed 7032 times

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990nz
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Post by 990nz » Fri Jan 29, 2016 5:27 am

Got the implematic in half, with half a dozen seized bolts, father in law finally won the battle armed with a rattle gun, power bar, and truck load of swearing what a mission! Im no mechanic but even I know it shouldnt look like this...
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imsplit1.jpg
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imclutch.jpg
imclutch.jpg (151.34 KiB) Viewed 7030 times

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990nz
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Post by 990nz » Fri Jan 29, 2016 5:40 am

A few too many years sitting outside in the rain I think...
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imfilter1.jpg
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imfilter.jpg
imfilter.jpg (117.35 KiB) Viewed 7023 times

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ollek
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Post by ollek » Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:14 pm

I always thought that all Implematic tractors and the first Selectamatic tractors had a washable suction strainer, see the following link http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-se ... 2ar1069704 All later Selectamatic tractors with rear mounted hydraulic pump had the paper filter and a washable suction strainer for safety, please see the following link http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-se ... 6ar1289500 The two last pictures, imfilter and imfilter1 looks to be the paper filter system as used in Selectamatic tractors. Is it possible that someone has modified the tractor to have the Selectamatic filter system?

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990nz
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Location: New Zealand

Post by 990nz » Sat Jan 30, 2016 2:54 am

aaah crap... no your definetly right,thats off the selectamatic, ive got the photos labelled wrong. either way. its not good :) good spotting though ollek!

nathanialbumpo
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Re: 990 Implematic and Selectamatic

Post by nathanialbumpo » Thu Mar 28, 2019 11:15 am

I have a question, my "Quote" 990a has a 12 speed transmission but it has the mesh filter without the paper element. I got my serial numbers off the label on fender. Could some have replaced the fenders? If I replace the cover and add paper filter will the bolt pattern match up.

nathanialbumpo
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Re: 990 Implematic and Selectamatic

Post by nathanialbumpo » Thu Mar 28, 2019 11:16 am

I have a question, my "Quote" 990a has a 12 speed transmission but it has the mesh filter without the paper element. I got my serial numbers off the label on fender. Could some have replaced the fenders? If I replace the cover and add paper filter will the bolt pattern match up.

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