1390 fan belt problem

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rjc
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Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 8:52 pm
Location: Antrim

1390 fan belt problem

Post by rjc » Mon May 14, 2012 2:15 pm

My first post, I'm afraid is a cry for help. I have a 1390 and I have just changed a faulty alternator but I find the fan belt needs replaced. The coupler on mine is the same as on the picture http://www.dbtc.co.uk/modules/PNphpBB2/ ... 70_158.jpg and is not like the others described elsewhere on this site. It looks a simple task but the rubber coupler appears to have been put on with the bolts the wrong way round. So there is no room to remove them without the front hydraulic pump being removed.

As I understand it (please tell me I'm wrong!) I'll have to remove the loader to get access, drain out the hydraulic system, remove the pump and hoses to start the job. Afterwards I must replace the hydraulic fluid and bleed the system. If this is correct does anyone know what is the least I can get away with to bleed this model? I have a manual which seems to refer to every model but mine. So what must I do to bleed it?

I had so hoped to get a bit of use out of this before getting into tractor mechanics. Good heavens, it's just a fan belt!!!

Guest

RE: 1390 fan belt problem

Post by Guest » Mon May 14, 2012 2:33 pm

You could replace the belt without dismantling anything by using a 'link' belt, slacken back the alternator to it's fullest, put the link belt around the pulleys, join the ends and then swing out the alternator to tension the belt, job done. You should have 1" of movement of the belt mid way between alternator and crank pulley, that's 1/2" in, 1/2" out.

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richbug
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RE: 1390 fan belt problem

Post by richbug » Mon May 14, 2012 3:07 pm

A link belt is a stop-gap measure at best.

You can avoid draining the hydraulics if you can raise the front end 8-10 inches above the rear, by jacking up, or driving up an incline.

Undo suction and pressure lines, undo the two bolts that hold the pump bracket(there should be a dowel under it too).

Wiggle belt in under pump and bracket.

How much tin and loader you remove depends on how much of a contortionist you are.
Users: 780, 1210 Bottle Opener, 1494 4wd open station with 74L, 990, 1394, 1194 High Clearance, another 1394, 1194 LCG, 1290 with 56L, 900, 885 with LS8, 885, 1190

1200, 900 projects, 780,

Parts: 3800, 1200, 1394, 1412, 1490, 770, 885, 990SEL, Red 990I,

Dieter
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RE: 1390 fan belt problem

Post by Dieter » Mon May 14, 2012 4:59 pm

Looking at the picture (haven't done it myself)

Can you try to grind off the heads of faulty placed bolts and replace them after changing the belt with new bolts?

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jimc1390
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RE: 1390 fan belt problem

Post by jimc1390 » Mon May 14, 2012 8:45 pm

second cambs there, no matter what way the bolts are in they seem the wrong way :) its a hassle of a job but you can slip the belt through the gap by using the method cambs suggested, while your at it pop a spare one in there for next time and have it around the fan first to save taking that off
db 990 selectamatic
case ih 1594 com ed
db 1390 gd90 loader

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rjc
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Location: Antrim

Post by rjc » Mon May 14, 2012 11:27 pm

Many thanks for the quick replies, folks. It's a relief to hear some suggestions. I am tempted by Powerrabbit's link belt suggestion as it would be so easy. The old belt is my existing stop-gap solution - it's ragged and squealing a bit. But I want to work this thing soon for cutting hay and I need to be sure. Dieter's idea of grinding out the bolts was my first idea but there is no room to put new bolts in (they need to have been already in place to be the right way round as I see it - I assume somebody has had it apart in the past when they put them in wrong).
I appreciate richbugs idea for raising the front - I will definitely try that if I have to remove the pump. But the consensus seems to swing to getting it on past that rubber monstrosity. My hopes are up a bit but I think the bolts which, as I say, are on the wrong way round are long; so they don't withdraw very far before they hit the hydraulic pump. That's why I think that idea did not occur to me when I had one off as far as it would go. Still - stretching the rubber coupler with a crowbar - it has to be tried to the point of danger to be sure, I think.

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bedwards1966
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Post by bedwards1966 » Mon May 14, 2012 11:58 pm

I tried a link belt once, it was completely useless. It seemed like a great solution compared to removing the hydraulic pump, but all I found was it was expensive and just didn't grip. In the end I had no choice but to take everything apart and do it properly with a normal belt, and wishing I hadn't wasted time and money on a quick fix.

All that said, I do know someone who rates them very highly, some people have had good experiences with them.

One tip I was given was to put 2 belts on when it's a really awkward job, tie one belt up out of the way so it's not touching any moving parts, then when the first one you replaced needs renewing simply cut it and slip the spare on.

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jules
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Location: Australia

Post by jules » Mon May 14, 2012 11:58 pm

Follow the cambs plan and you'll be ok. No crowbar required. As indicated in cambs second post, the splined coupling will move forward when you've got the bolts undone. Be careful about the fan belt length. The cab version is a different length to the cabless type and the Case online parts list doesn't mention this.

While you're there, if you can get a bit of copper grease on the shaft splines, it's useful [not too much though of course].

jules

mitch
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Post by mitch » Tue May 15, 2012 1:06 am

Hi jules, where do you get your fan belts from? I have bought two now and they are not the right ones, always too long. This is for a 1210 and 1412 (no cab), assuming they are the same.
non-Q 1975 1210 2wd
model# 1210/1 728931
engine# AD4/55A 26193

1975 1412 2wd
model# 1412/1 1050623
engine# 455011 120673

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rjc
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Location: Antrim

Post by rjc » Tue May 15, 2012 1:36 am

Yep,
I have had another think and I am starting to believe in the cambs plan. I didn't quite get it first time round so my earlier comments are probably a bit confused. If it works it'll save me a load of trouble. I think I'll measure the new belt now so I don't get caught out and then order a second one before I start. Thanks to all for the great tips. I'll let you know the outcome.

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jules
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Post by jules » Tue May 15, 2012 3:22 am

Mitch, the belt for my 1394 is theoretically a K68073 which translates as an AVX10 X 1175. [Mine was a bepco belt VT11/04789] I fitted one of these but new, it was right on the [long] limit of adjustment and normal stretching has made it too loose. I think there's a belt that's about 25mm shorter in AVX10 and I'm on the hunt for one at the moment, so I'll post information when I have it.

I'm not sure but I suspect the problem is that the bonnet on the cab tractors is higher and allows the alternator more vertical movement and hence more belt length.

jules

Guest

Post by Guest » Tue May 15, 2012 8:18 am

If a belt is a little too long, you can get away with it if you fit a longer slide bracket arm providing there is enough room for it to clear the side panel of the bonnet.

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jimc1390
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Post by jimc1390 » Tue May 15, 2012 8:51 am

cheaper to just get the right belt surely?
db 990 selectamatic
case ih 1594 com ed
db 1390 gd90 loader

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jimc1390
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Location: cornwall

Post by jimc1390 » Tue May 15, 2012 6:24 pm

ive seen arms put in a different bolt hole in the timing cover to get a bit more stretch :) like you said you take the time to get the right thing and you look a tool for the privilige, especially if you been arseing around with pump drives!!
db 990 selectamatic
case ih 1594 com ed
db 1390 gd90 loader

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denbute
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Location: Breendonk. Belgium.

Post by denbute » Tue May 15, 2012 8:57 pm

I'm in the process of looking for a new fan belt as well.

The one on my 1210 right now, is a Gates auto master 6449? which translates into a AVX10 X 1175.
This one leaves me with little to no room for adjustment as it seems to be to short. (I'm barely at 1/3 of the tensioner + it slightly rubs the belt guard even tightened up)
I could hardly get it slack enough to be taken of the pullies.

I asked for an alterative at work (we are Optibelt dealer) and they suggested a AVX10 X 1200 which is only 25 mm longer.

I think I'll try that one and keep the shorter one just in case of emergency.
<b>1964 David Brown 880 Implematic sn: 880C357040 4 cylinder
197? David Brown 1210 sn: 1210/1/728679
1978 David Brown 996 sn: 995/6/11083514

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