1968 780 Rebuild (lots of photos)

This is for members to post photos of their restorations, either completed or "works in progress"

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dsk
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Location: Caithness

Post by dsk » Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:34 am

Got the pump back today
Image :D
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Dieter
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Location: Everdingen, The Netherlands

Post by Dieter » Sun Jun 26, 2011 3:14 pm

Hi DSK,

A word of attention when you mix engine bits from early and later engines:
The early engines had smaller valves and a camshaft with less lift. The 'space' machined in the pistons for the valves differ with the valves diameter and camshaft lift.
When you use the head with bigger valves and/ or camshaft with higher lift, please check carefully if that the valves do not interfere with the pistons!

But do enjoy your engine rebuild! I find it the most fun part of a tractor rebuild :wink:

BR,
Dieter

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dsk
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Post by dsk » Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:37 pm

I am fortunate that my donor engine has previously been rebuilt with later model pistons and valves. And any future engine that I build for my 880 will now most likely be almost all new parts. But can anyone give me any information on when the camshafts were changed?

Edit:
The valves and valve seats have been recut, lapped, and refitted. Although I did have to resort to buying some new ones
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dsk
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Post by dsk » Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:18 pm

Getting ahead of myself but it looks nice. :)
Decided to wire indicators for the benefit of a trailer socket. Not authentic but I think it's quite tidy.
I don't have a fuel sender so I am thinking about an oil pressure gauge to go with the temp gauge.
Image

Std Belt Speed too.
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dsk
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Post by dsk » Sat Aug 20, 2011 1:52 pm

Finally lifted out the old engine

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Gearbox has a little light rust where water dripped from a gear lever but is very nice otherwise. The bearings are tight.

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This is what everything inside the engine is coated in.

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And we seem to have had an oil seal problem on the flywheel.

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John_Allen
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Post by John_Allen » Sat Aug 20, 2011 6:56 pm

The dash looks better than new! I suspect an oil pressure gauge will be a more useful item than a fuel gauge; especially as it is difficult to get a proper sender these days.

I was wondering if the engine had "missed" the modified back oil seal & housing. We fitted a number during the mid 70's, but yours might not have had problems then.

Just be careful though - you don't want to end up with a "show tractor"!!

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dsk
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Post by dsk » Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:00 pm

I have made a pretty classic error.
I bought another tractor before I finished this one. A Volvo BM Valmet. So while I will still be screwing this one back together, the money has run out. So I don't think there will be many more photos.
And it wont be any kind of show tractor.
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dsk
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Post by dsk » Sat May 12, 2012 10:11 pm

Found a few more pennies so I bought some more bits at last.
A new lift pump and pushrod, new leakoff pipe and some core plugs.

The new pump had a larger glass bowl that was a bit close to the oil filler so I used the old glass for now
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I don't seem to have mentioned in this thread that someone gave me a set of very good useable rims with tyres, which have been sandblasted.
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The seat in that photo is not bolted in yet but it is the one I am going to use.

Fitted the clutch today, and put the lid back on the gearbox.
I tried to use an 880 main clutch plate but the splines seem to be different, so I am re-using the entire clutch assembly as it came out. It's probably about time I used some 780 bits.

edit:
That could have been a mistake. The main clutch works a treat but the pto clutch does not.
edit:
just needed proper adjustment and now it works fine
Last edited by dsk on Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:17 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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dsk
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Post by dsk » Fri Jun 29, 2012 8:05 pm

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John_Allen
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Post by John_Allen » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:16 pm

Sounds good! It's a relief when they fire up and run properly - and a turning point in the restoration process.

So, now it's running, are you going to use it as it is for a while and make sure there are no major problems before cleaning it off and respraying? Hopefully there won't be too many problems sorting the tinwork out!

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dsk
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Post by dsk » Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:10 pm

the short answer is yes. I am hoping to use it on the hay turner in the next couple of weeks. Maybe even the baler.
Unfortunately the tinwork is not worth fixing, so it will get something temporary fitted until I get all new parts.
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dsk
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Post by dsk » Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:02 pm

Typical david brown hydraulics.
Not been used for a dozen years and supposedly not functioning even then. So a change of filter, start her up, pull the lever, and the arms lift and lower just exactly as they should. :D

Just got some wiring to do now.

Edit:
this is the trouble with writing things up quickly. It sems the hydraulics do work well, but not when I put weight on them. :cry:
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dsk
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Post by dsk » Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:48 pm

There is a lot still to do like a problematic hydraulics and all the tinwork, but for the sake of this thread I can probably end with one last photo of the tractor once again earning its keep.

Image

Just a wee one. It still looks better from a distance :wink:
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jimh
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Post by jimh » Wed Jul 18, 2012 7:30 am

A Fantastic amount of work you have done on your tractor! I was amazed at the first photo's you took at the beginning of this thread of all the solidly rusted parts and I for one would have balked at all that work and I would have I think, have walked away from it and found a better one, as to me it looked too far gone But I take my hat off to you for sticking with it and doing a fantastic job! I would love to see further photo's when you do finish her off with new tinwork and shiny paint! Well Done from me and Congratulations on all your hard work, paid off with a nice working restored tractor :D

Jim H
Australia
Jim

1970 DB 880A Selectamatic
1963 DB 880 Implematic

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Post by Guest » Wed Jul 18, 2012 8:59 am

You would be surprised Jim at the state of some tractors pre-restoration, there are far worse condition ones here that people take on, some are not even recognisable as a tractor but do get a full restoration. Dedication, healthy enthusiasm, a good supply of new and donor parts and a healthy bank ballance can work near miracles. The bank balance is not the most important criteria but it does help for it to be quite healthy but still surprising what you can do on a tight wad.

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