1967 880 Selectamatic

This is for members to post photos of their restorations, either completed or "works in progress"

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DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Sat Feb 06, 2021 6:37 pm

The next job was to remove the ram cylinder. In hindsight, I probably didn't need to do this but it has given access to the rear axle case to clean out the gunge and milky oil that won't drain out due to the strengthing webs in the castings which form dam walls and hence trap oil.

I was also able to clean out the tiny hole that supplies oil from the low pressure lube oil pipework to the back of the ram piston as this was blocked.

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First the ram piston O ring and leather ring were replaced.

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Next, the 5/16" ball bearing was replaced behind the bleed screw as the old one was corroded and didn't seal properly.

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Then, the front of the ram cylinder was given a coat of red oxide as it won't be easy to paint behind here once the 3 way valve is back on.

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Finally, the quadrant was rebuilt with new friction washers and a replacement spring assembly and trial fitted to the control housing. Previously, somebody had rebuilt the quadrant with a friction washer missing causing the lever to rub against the quadrant and wear a groove in the lever. The groove was built up with weld and ground back to shape.

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DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:10 pm

I'm getting to the point where I can't put it off any longer - I've got to put it all back together again and see if it works. The last few jobs were to drain the transmission oil and while the oil was out, remove, test and replace the vacuum switch and change the PTO shaft seal.

First to drop the oil. Although it was only changed a year ago before I took delivery of the tractor, there was a fair amount of water in the oil. The gauze was reasonably clogged too.

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I tried tipping diesel into the rear axle case to flush the milky oil through and it worked to some extent but the strengthening webs in there form pools that trap the dirty oil. In the end I bought a cheap oil extractor and sucked out the worst. There is still some residue in there but there's no easy way to clean it properly as the half shaft restricts access.

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As good as it gets.........

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I wanted to test the vacuum switch and check the end of the adaptor for damage while the oil was out. The original adaptor was aluminium but I've swapped it for a later brass one. The vacuum switch was faulty so that was replaced with one that works and I made a new gasket and put it all back together.

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Finally, I changed the PTO shaft seal as although the old one appeared to have stopped leaking, there was no reason why it wouldn't start again.

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Moose
Posts: 28
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2019 5:06 pm
Location: Ireland

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by Moose » Mon Feb 15, 2021 12:52 pm

I have been following this with interest from the start, you are doing an excellent job well done. The pictures are great for reference and the cleanliness of the parts when ready for reassembly is quite remarkable.

DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Tue Feb 16, 2021 11:52 am

Thanks for the kind words Moose - I'm trying my best and am a bit of a perfectionist so I'm hoping all this is justfied in the end. I started posting updates for two reasons -firstly I like to see what other people are up to with their restorations/repairs and assume others are the same and secondly I've learnt so much from this forum that I thought a few more photos would be helpful to others doing the same as me. The information and advice on this forum has certainly given me the confidence to get to where I am today.

David

DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Thu Feb 18, 2021 3:57 pm

I put the ramshaft back on last Sunday after a few preparatory jobs such as having one last go at cleaning out the rear axle case. Here are some photos of the reassembly process.

First job was to fit the new valve chest. It is fastened on to the ramshaft bracket with the two studs shown plus two dowels and a bolt that comes through from the back that are yet to be fitted.

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Replacement valve chest fitted. This came from Barclay Williams and is a refurbished unit.

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For interest (as you'd never get to see it normally) you can see the end of the rocker lever resting on the abutment plate with the selector in the External/TCU position. In the valve chest, the top two openings next to each other are the underside of the hold and bypass valves with the spool valve in the middle and the TCU valve plunger at the bottom.

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Next, the ram cylinder to rear axle case gasket is positioned. I didn't put any Hylomar on this in the end, just greased both sides. We shall see if that was a good idea.........

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The ram cylinder goes in next. I left the 4 bolts that secure the three way valve in place as they helped hold the front of the cylinder as it was passed through the axle case.

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Next the ramshaft goes back in. Experience tells me that the ramshaft has to go in absolutely square and level otherwise the control valve chest fouls the hole in the axle case and jams up. At the same time, the connecting rod needs to be passed through the axle case and the needle valve needs to be guided around the hydraulic pipes otherwise that also stops progress. And on top of all that, the low pressure lube pipe tends to fall off at every available opportunity. In hindsight, I think I would leave it in the bottom of the axle case until the ramshaft is in position rather than trying to put it back in position every time as it is just possible with some fiddling to get the pipe back in place through the hole in the front of the axle case. All in all, it went back together without too much trouble. It can be supported with a bit of wood on top of the PTO housing to give you the chance to get all the bolts back in without it moving out of position.

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I then trial fitted the ram cylinder cover to check that my lift latch repair was successful. All seems good - there is no fouling of the latch pin when the latch is disengaged and plenty of movement of the pin and a nice positive click as the ramshaft is raised in the engaged position. After this test, I refitted the cover using Hylomar blue between the two halves.

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Then all the bolts and nuts were refitted with new shakeproof and sealing washers. Armed with a torque wrench, I got scared and stopped well before the proper torque was applied so either I read the manual wrong or I was just compressing the new gaskets and washers. I need to revisit this next time and understand whats going on. The height and depth control push rods and guide bracket need to be reinstalled in the ramshaft bracket next.

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Finally, the hydraulic connections to the valve chest were reconnected.

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To be continued......

DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:53 pm

So with the ramshaft back on, Sunday was supposed to be the day to finish putting the hydraulics back together, fill with oil and test.

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I installed the height and depth push rods in the ramshaft bracket and checked the cam position with the ramshaft latched up on the lift latch. All looks good.

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I'd already looked into the gearbox through the filler plug and observed the usual yellow gunge in there. However, I also noticed what looked like a torn off rectangular item lying in the bottom. So I decided to take the gearbox lid off to investigate, and if nothing else, give it a good clean.

First, the steering column has to come off.

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And then the gearbox lid.

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All in all, the gears didn't look too bad (looking from the offside)...........

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....but this gear (viewed from the nearside) has seen some stick. I haven't worked out which gear this is yet, but there's not much I can do about it.

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The bit of debris in the bottom of the gearbox appears to be what is left of the clutch stop band brake. It seems to have lost all of its friction material and probably explains some difficulty in changing gear, and possibly the wear on the gears too (although I think this was a loader tractor in a previous life). Fingers crossed I can find a replacement.

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Finally, a good blast out with diesel flushed out all the dirt and debris through the bottom of the gearbox which means the whole transmission, rear axle case and PTO housing is now free of goo. It went from this.....

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to this....

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Cadno
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2020 11:41 am
Location: Bangor Gwynedd

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by Cadno » Thu Feb 25, 2021 10:29 am

She'll be lovely when you've finished.
It's a credit to you.

DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Sat Mar 20, 2021 6:19 pm

Having got both my original brake band and one sourced from Ebay refurbished through David Brown Parts it was time to refit. As there's only three bolts holding the clutch stop mechanism inside the gearbox it was easier to remove it from the tractor to clean up and check the adjustments.

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With it back in the tractor, I fitted the refurbished brake band having soaked it overnight in oil. I followed the service manual to set up the band clearance and adjusted the screw on the pedal mechanism to give 1.6mm clearance. All looks good.

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The original paper gasket was ripped and had seen better days so I've used Hylomar blue to reseal the gearbox lid. The original bolts were wired brushed and primed and the holes in the chassis cleaned out with a tap. The lid was then refitted.

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While the steering column was off I decided to tidy it up by wire brushing the various parts and priming. The original steering wheel was successfully removed after some heart stopping moments. The woodruff key was missing so a new one was bought from Barclay Williams along with a dirt excluder which was also missing. A new friction washer was also obtained and new screws for the hand throttle stops.

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The bottom end was also cleaned up and regreased. I've cut a paper gasket for the steering box to gearbox lid interface so it's ready to go back on.

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DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Mon Mar 29, 2021 11:05 am

So after 6 months of having the hydraulics in bits and a few deviations along the way to repair other things I hadn't forseen, it was finally time to put it all back together again.

First, a home made gasket was fitted to the steering box.

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Then the threads in the lid were cleaned out with a 3/8" tap and the the oil bath was filled to 1" below the top.

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The steering column was then bolted down.

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Next, the vacuum switch and adaptor were refitted and I also fitted an original guard sourced from eBay. I'm not sure this was fitted to my tractor from new but I believe was fitted to later 880's (according to the 1971 parts manual).

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Then a new filter. On fitting for the first time, the filter would not stay in the suction pipe and kept falling out. This turned out to be due to the diameter of the o ring being too small. A thicker o ring solved the problem.

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Next, the three way valve, control housing and quadrant were refitted. I followed the manual and it was all fairly straightforward, if a bit fiddly.

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And the moment of truth - would it work? Well, the arms were a bit juddery on their first raise but after bleeding the air from the ram cylinder and carrying out the Group 3 adjustments (cam plate was fine) everything appears to be good. Even the TCU function works properly which was a bit of a worry as I didn't do the Group 2 adjustments as I don't have the correct tool. All I did was swap the abutment plate and shims from my old valve chest to the new one.

Once I get the lower arms back on again I'll fine tune the nyloc nut on the end of the connecting rod because with out much leverage, it's an effort to lower the ramshaft. The dump valve also needs to be refitted and also the top link sensing cable once the top link sensing unit is back on.

It's nice to see clean oil being pumped around. The photo was taken on idle - it gets a bit splashy in there with more revs hence the reason for making a temporary wooden cover while I was adjusting everything. It also provides protection from the revolving input shaft.

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Looking back 12 months, I woudn't have dared tackle the hydraulics. I was led to believe the Selectamatic system was black magic and shouldn't be touched for fear of it never working again. I still wouldn't mess about with the valve chest internals, but with the help of the parts manuals, service manuals and information and advice on this forum and Barclay and Stuart from Barclay Williams, it wasn't such a daunting job after all.

Moose
Posts: 28
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2019 5:06 pm
Location: Ireland

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by Moose » Sun Apr 04, 2021 9:41 am

Well done, glad to hear it works. The cleanliness of the oil is testament to your efforts! Are you hoping to tackle more areas on the tractor or is that it for now?

DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Sun Apr 04, 2021 11:26 pm

My rough plan is to work forward towards the engine and front axle and then wire/re-wire the tractor, strip again and paint. The idea being to ensure there is nothing mechanical outstanding once it's painted. That's the plan at least.

I currently have the "frame platforms" complete with brake cross shaft and brake pedals removed in order to free off some siezed parts and correct some modifications done by a previous owner.

I've also got a couple of oil leaks to fix - not everything goes to plan - one on the transmission oil filter housing (need a better gasket) and the other on the lift latch cover (maybe not enough Hylomar). So all that lovely clean oil has to come out again!

Cadno
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2020 11:41 am
Location: Bangor Gwynedd

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by Cadno » Mon Apr 19, 2021 5:26 pm

Keep at it, you're doing an excellent job.
Clean the paint off the gearbox housing bolts tho :lol:

Cadno
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2020 11:41 am
Location: Bangor Gwynedd

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by Cadno » Mon Apr 19, 2021 5:27 pm

or paint them chocolate brown, my OCD can't stand it....

DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Tue Apr 20, 2021 1:15 pm

It due to my OCD that I’ve been priming them! Don’t worry, they’ll get painted brown......one day.

DRM
Posts: 91
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:56 am
Location: Warwickshire

Re: 1967 880 Selectamatic

Post by DRM » Mon May 10, 2021 11:59 am

As mentioned previously, after filling the transmission with oil I had a couple of leaks - one from the ram cylinder cover and one from the rear sump cover. These leaks were due to the fact I hadn't applied the hylomar blue properly so a lesson learnt there. I also swapped the paper gasket on the sump cover for a rubber gasket. The sump cover is slightly distorted due to the bolts being overtightened over its lifetime so I thought a more compressible rubber gasket might seal better than a hard paper gasket. Seems to be OK so far.

The next job was to remove the frame platforms (footplates) to replace the 1/4" nuts on the underside that bolts the front of the mudguard down. A previous owner had drilled through these to fit non-original bolts.

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Quite a lot of corrosion under here and a bit of refubishment to do.

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There seems to be more corrosion on the clutch pedal side than the brake pedal side. There is surprisingly little wear on the cross shaft however.

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Because I might not take this off again before painting the tractor, I decided to rust proof and prime the edges of the frame platforms where they join to the tractor.

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The chassis was wire brushed and the 7/16" UNC holes tapped out. Some of the worst corroded bolts were replaced.

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The chassis was then primed. Also I have fitted a replacement pair of drawbar hinge brackets as mine were pretty worn and pitted.

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In readiness for refitting the hitch plates, the PTO housing was primed as I don't want to take the hitch plates off again when painting.

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Finally, the ripped rubber on the steering drop arm was replaced and the drop arm refitted to the steering box cross shaft with a new bolt.

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