Concours Condition

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broadsword
Posts: 1708
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:17 pm
Location: Holmfirth, Huddersfield

Post by broadsword » Sat May 28, 2011 10:50 pm

Alan,

thanks for the interest - a picture of the 990 but it is not a concours condition tractor - frame is painted in cellulose - its more hard wearing than two pack and as I said you can still see the casting marks etc, I think some concours restores flatten and fill in the casting marks which I think is taking it too far. The panel work is done in two pack and was painted by my car painter (I am a car trader) so the paint finish is excellent. Unfortunately you learn as you go along, I had the wheels shotblasted and primed then painted, with hindsight I should have filled and flattened out the pitting in the wheels and there are some kerbing on the wheel edges but this was my first tractor so again you learn as you go along.
This tractor deos get used though and she`s done about 300 hours since I got her, if it was concours condition chances are it would just sit in a dry garage going out twice a year on road runs which is not the reason I bought it in the first place.
Tricky bit is also enclosed is a picture of the latest purchase a Cropmaster diesel - as the DB bug bites hard, half of me says paint the thing, the other half says leave her as is with that 59 year weathering showing in all its glory - still undecided at the moment :roll:

Cheers

Andy

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mart1602
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Location: pembs
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Post by mart1602 » Sun May 29, 2011 6:46 pm

the cropmaster looks great,but as some have said you wouldnt use it for its intended purpose,i struggle to understand how people can spend so much money on a tractor to leave it in the shed apart from a couple of days a year.if its not going to work again why rebuild the engine?concourse tractors are usually fixed up by others than the owner to get the required standard of finish so how ca the owner take pride in the finished job?whoevers got the fattest wallet takes the trophy

andy what does it cost for a profesional spray job?

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simonwill69
Posts: 224
Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2009 9:54 am
Location: Redruth, Cornwall

Post by simonwill69 » Sun May 29, 2011 7:49 pm

Quote; I had the wheels shotblasted and primed then painted, with hindsight I should have filled and flattened out the pitting in the wheels.Unquote
I am facing the same situation soon.Can you apply filler directly over primer, as it comes back from blasting? Can the larger pits be filled in with the welder?
Thanks, Simon

John_Allen
Posts: 1894
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:59 pm
Location: Cumbria UK

Post by John_Allen » Sun May 29, 2011 8:15 pm

Simon, I've put filler over primer. Some say you shouldn't, but it it's etch primer, the primer HAS to go on bare metal, so how would you fill it first!?

I did the Fergy wheels, some deep pits, with filler, but that was never going to pull heavy loads! The only snag with welding is the grinding marks you make afterwards. In theory, it should restore strength to the wheel, but the heat might cause buckling if you put a lot of weld in.

AS far as concours goes - I do the best I can afford and am able to do myself. The tractors both get used - even with a high gloss finish and chromed bits (on the Fergy). I would like "Factory Finish", but I fear people would think I was a useless spray-painter if I sprayed it with runs and missed bits! None of my tractors have been concours - because I do it myself (except for things like skimming heads, grinding cranks or other jobs I haven't got equipment to do). That's my choice (mainly because of financial restrictions!) - but I prefer to see tractors work - or be able to work!

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Madders
Posts: 2433
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:52 pm
Location: Holmfirth

shiny things

Post by Madders » Sun May 29, 2011 8:51 pm

she's here but not used much....
[.................................[/size] Image

Robert10100
Posts: 108
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 8:16 pm

Post by Robert10100 » Sun May 29, 2011 8:54 pm

What's all this about sheds? You wouldn't leave a concours tractor in a damp old shed. God, an air conditioned tiled garage at the very least!!!

Although the cropmaster had never ventured into a field since restoration, I regularly use my ferguson with a mowbar...only the top link connection gets marked and it's easy to touch up. Also, the ferguson is a much nicer tractor to use to do anything - it's silent, with a whine-free transmission, and will turn around on a sixpence!

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jimc1390
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Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 10:27 pm
Location: cornwall

Post by jimc1390 » Sun May 29, 2011 9:04 pm

hmmm wrong site to be claiming that sort of thought? fergys urm not for me pard
db 990 selectamatic
case ih 1594 com ed
db 1390 gd90 loader

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sleepcheater
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 7:11 pm
Location: Alberta

Re: shiny things

Post by sleepcheater » Sun May 29, 2011 9:36 pm

Madders wrote:she's here but not used much....
That is one sweet tractor, good on ya!

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Madders
Posts: 2433
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:52 pm
Location: Holmfirth

RE: Re: shiny things

Post by Madders » Mon May 30, 2011 7:52 am

Thanks chap... the history is in the archive on here somewhere from scrap to that in 3 long, miserable years!!! lol!!
[.................................[/size] Image

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simonwill69
Posts: 224
Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2009 9:54 am
Location: Redruth, Cornwall

Post by simonwill69 » Mon May 30, 2011 9:28 pm

Thanks for all the comments, its interesting how differently we all view tractors and so how to go about restoring them.
Anyway, after much grinding, hammering and welding, bonnet and nose finally off to the painters ! Concours.....no.
Tidy......hopefully.

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dj
Posts: 376
Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 8:10 pm
Location: West Wales

Post by dj » Tue May 31, 2011 11:43 am

simonwill69,

I also have a 1210 with lots of front end rust.
Yours is coming along nicely, and I'm sure will be great when sprayed.
Do you have any 'before' shots of your machine?

I also have rust at the bottom end of the side panels and below where the grille fits in. It would encourage me to persevere with my existing metalwork.

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simonwill69
Posts: 224
Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2009 9:54 am
Location: Redruth, Cornwall

Post by simonwill69 » Wed Jun 29, 2011 10:56 pm

Hi Di, sorry it's been a while. So here's the latest.
Like John said, it all depends on what you want and what skills you have.....? I could have spent £100 on a professional job for the bonnet, but a friend gave me some more welding tips,helped me with the decal and here's the result...good or bad. Best of luck, Simon

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simonwill69
Posts: 224
Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2009 9:54 am
Location: Redruth, Cornwall

Post by simonwill69 » Wed Jun 29, 2011 11:09 pm

some pics of the nosecone

John_Allen
Posts: 1894
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:59 pm
Location: Cumbria UK

Post by John_Allen » Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:28 am

Coming along nicely Simon. It may not be the perfection of a concours machine, but it should make a decent looking machine that you can enjoy using - and has saved another DB from scraping duties (though I wouldn't fancy using a 12XX for that!).

You can take pride in learning new skills (that you can use elsewhere) and, if you widen the door, have a nice focal point in the living room!

I notice the remains of a Sta-Dry/Victor cab. I do hope you refurbish that - not only for the safety frame/cab, but as part of the "original" tractor's history. My 780 has a rotten Victor cab when I bought it, but I've stripped the scrap cladding and roof off, leaving a frame with mudguards, so I can use it - or let others use it - without upsetting the HSE etc! The downside is that it cost me £300 to have new sheet metal made for the lower panels and wings. I would have made them myself, but I haven't got a big metal folder - but have a neighbour who is a really skilled sheetmetal worker! Some time in the future, I may rebuild the cladding - but I don't really want to as they were somewhat too noisy!

Scooby
Posts: 3980
Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 8:16 pm
Location: Warwickshire

Post by Scooby » Thu Jun 30, 2011 9:09 am

Just to go off on a tangent for a moment.............when I was buying new tractors I used to paint all the shiny(ish) bits with some "gloopy" stuff made by Castrol. It was a bit like 140 oil but thicker, you could hardly paint it with a brush unless you had heated it up a bit but it would set very hard in a few hours.

I used to do all the wheel nuts, throttle lever (I know some of it would rub off), anything that wasn't painted and was clearly visible.

Then when it was time to trade the tractor in I would get some petrol and get rid of it all and the nuts etc would come up like new. :lol:
Image Image

Three is twee, four does snore, but 6 just clicks........Scooby

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