1290 power steering pump

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nonsavant
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:19 pm

1290 power steering pump

Post by nonsavant » Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:07 am

Hi,

Our steering has gone, and from what I've read on this illustrious forum it looks likely that a collapsed steering pump filter is the culprit.

So splashing out on a pump repair kit seems sensible, but how do I know I'm getting the right one for my pump?

The pump is a Plessey 957318.

For seal kits, I've looked at:
seal kit on ebay
The service manual has an exploded diagram of a Sunstrand pump, showing some funny-shaped seals which are obviously not part of this kit... will this kit match the Plessey?

For replacement filter:
filter from the DBTC shop

another filter from AgriEngineering (much cheaper)

Any advice much appreciated folks!

Thanks,
Pete

Guest

RE: 1290 power steering pump

Post by Guest » Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:08 pm

This is the kit you need to service the filter. Comprises of the filter element, housing sealing ring, housing bolt seal O ring and the filler plug seal washer.

http://www.vapormatic.com/catalogue/cat ... tDown=True

Here is the complete seal kit and service kit. Second one down in this list shows the seals that you term as 'the funny-shaped' ones, these you shape yourself by feeding them around the grooves in the pump body.
The last lot shows the steering ram seal kit.

http://www.vapormatic.com/catalogue/cat ... tDown=True

nonsavant
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:19 pm

Progress

Post by nonsavant » Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:28 pm

Powerrabbit - many thanks for the parts info (and yes, I was wondering if I'd get away with describing those seals as funny-shaped...)

More questions though, as I've been busy with the spanners. I've removed the large outer casing (14) of the pump -- shouldn't the filter (20) be immediately visible? There was nothing there. Can it have been working for all these years with no filter in place?

Also, I'm wondering whether I should just do the filter and seals, or go the whole hog and take the pump apart... how tricky is the latter?

Image
(p.s. I've figured out that this Sunstrand diagram does match my pump... was looking at it the wrong way round...)


Thanks all
Pete

Alchad
Posts: 716
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:18 pm
Location: Shropshire

RE: Progress

Post by Alchad » Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:01 pm

Pete,

Yes the filter should be immediately visible, its about 4 inches diameter by i inch thick, only possibility is that as it's held on by the bolt that also fastens the outer case to the pump body it's fallen in there? Otherwise it looks as though someone hasn't refitted it - and it would work without one.

As for taking the whole lot to pieces, it's not too difficult, only two tricky bits are getting a good grip on the pump body while you undo the four (I think) bolts which can be quite tight, and you have to be careful geting the gear from the shaft. Obviously you need to keep things as clean as possible when you do dismantle it.

Your service manual will probably tell you what to look for when it's taken apart. In truth though I think all you can really do is to check that there is nothing obvioulsy wrong - the vanes of the pump damaged or the bearings scratched.

However, going back to your first post - you said that the steering had gone and suspected a collapsed filter, but what exactly is wrong with the steering in the first place?

Regards

Alchad

nonsavant
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:19 pm

Post by nonsavant » Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:11 am

Alchad,

The steering has become progressively unresponsive over the last few weeks. Also a knocking sound started whenever the steering wheel was turned. Hard to say where the sound was coming from, but it certainly seemed related to the steering... it may have only appeared, or been at its worst, when the steering was locked.

The steering improves with revs. With the engine idling, there is no steering.

Judging from what I've read here, I was expecting to find a collapsed filter. So I'm now at a bit of a loss!

Cheers
Pete

Guest

Post by Guest » Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:19 am

The problem very well could be the rear seals in the steering ram itself causing the oil to leak past them and not operating the ram. You will find that the steering will operate to a certain extent with higher engine revs as the pump would be delivering more volume of oil when turning faster. This is what I would suspect.

Alchad
Posts: 716
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:18 pm
Location: Shropshire

Post by Alchad » Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:26 am

Pete,

Don't think you mentioned which model of tractor yours is, but for some reason I think it's a 1290, or 1390?

I think I'd be inclined to do the simple things first, stick on a new filter, fill the oil up to the correct level and check it out again and report back. The fact that steering improves with revs could be either a worn pump or low oil level - oil level is easier to check.

As for knocking from the front, might be best to start a new topic and ask the experts, but I suppose the obvious culprit could be bearings? Also might be worth having a good look at the wheel bolt fastenings onto the wheel rim, a few of mine have fractured and needed welding.

Alchad

nonsavant
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:19 pm

Post by nonsavant » Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:45 am

Powerrabbit - Leaking seals on the ram certainly sounds possible, but would you expect this to be accompanied by the knocking noise?

I imagine take the ram off and replacing seals is just messy rather than difficult...?


Alchad - 1290, yep.

Re the knocking, I'm struggling a bit to describe it, as a colleague has actually been driving it more than me recently. I'm 95% certain it is related to the steering (i.e. it only appears when the steering is being operated).

Oil level was fine, checked that first.

thanks!
Pete

simont
Posts: 258
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 7:52 pm
Location: Wrexham North Wales

Post by simont » Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:51 am

Hi Pete.
If your 1290 is around a 1980-82 Your filter will be contained in a second resovoir under the bonnet by the windscreen.
Regards Simon
case 1594 hydra 1985
DB 1290 manual 1982 Image

Image

Guest

Post by Guest » Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:39 pm

Pete. The 'knocking' could be coming from the rear end of the ram if the seals have gone as this would lower the oil pressure to operate the ram as it would be passing the seaals bypassing the feed pipe and trying to return to the reservoir, you may also be experiencing a slight 'tug' on your hands through the steering wheel when turning it and it will also feel a little jerky and feel like its sort of grating. Noises you are hearing through the steering can be transmitted from anywhere in the system and as others have said, start with the simple things first. In replacing the steering ram seals, this is quite an easy job and whilst apart, replace both ends.

Method:
Jack front axle so steering ram side wheel just touching the ground.
Turn front wheels so ram is closed.
Undo oil pipes and put a tray under to catch any oil that runs out, it won't be very much.
Remove front steering ball joint nut and with a large hammer, lump or sledge, clout the top of the steering arm as close to the joint as yuo can, it will jump out of the tapered hole in the steering arm.
Remove ball joint from end of ram.
Remove dirt excluder ram tube end. (plastic cone thingy) Or the seal, which ever one it has, probably the seal.
Remove both circlips from inside the ram tube.
Slide out the metal collar and then pull out the ram.

You will see all the seals and rings you replace by those in the kit, just make sure you match up the new seals with each of the old ones as they are all different and need to be fitted in their correct places.

Forgot to say Pete that when you have it all back together, start the tractor and turn the steering full-lock both ways a couple of times and then top up the reservoir if needed with new oil with the front wheels straight. Job done.

nonsavant
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:19 pm

Post by nonsavant » Wed Jul 07, 2010 3:31 pm

Thanks for all the advice guys. Busy today but will hopefully get back to it tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

Really wish I'd turned her around before starting work... front in to the shed at the mo, and it's a tight fit :) live n learn...

Powerrabbit- when you say jack front axle... should the other front wheel be completely off the ground, just touching... or doesn't matter? Ta

Cheers
Pete

Guest

Post by Guest » Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:48 pm

Just jack up the front so's you can turn the wheels from side to side by hand Pete, this will put less resistance on the steering as well when you've done the seals when you start up the tractor and turn the steering each way a couple of times as per the bottom part of my last post.

nonsavant
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:19 pm

Post by nonsavant » Thu Jul 08, 2010 2:03 pm

I now have the pump detached from the tractor. Parts 1 through to 3 are held together by the nut (3). How do you loosen this nut, as the entire assembly just rotates. I don't want to damage the teeth on the gear (21) or rotor, but I also can't see any way of locking the shaft. Any ideas? (as you can tell, I'm no mechanic!)

Thanks,
Pete

Alchad
Posts: 716
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:18 pm
Location: Shropshire

Post by Alchad » Thu Jul 08, 2010 2:10 pm

Pete,

No doubr with this answer others will say I'm no mechanic either - BUT - what I did was to hold the gear in a vice using lead sheet to protect the gears. At a pinch you could probably use aluminium or even wood. The thing is to try and do it sensibly, tighten the vice gradually and keep checking if the gear is gripped while trying to undo the nut. HOWEVER -WARNING - just make sure that it can't fall out of the vice onto a hard floor, that could damage a gear tooth.

Good luck

Alchad

nonsavant
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:19 pm

Post by nonsavant » Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:32 pm

Alchad - that worked for me. Any similar advice for pulling the gear? The service manual explicitly states not to hammer it through.

Cheers
Pete

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