990 Handbrake pawl

sions1 · Post by **sions1** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:38 pm

Does anyone have the dimensions for the handbrake pawl on 990 selectamatic? I removed mine and it is severely worn. I could order from England but don't care to email credit card info. Now I have laid the worn one down somewhere and can't find it. Lenght, diameter, notch depth and width. What is the notch for anyhow? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Madders · Post by **Madders** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:22 pm

just pm me and I'll take secure payment through e-barclaycard for a new one inc. the spring Â£15 plus Â£2.50 shipping for genuine cnh parts....

chris
club shop manager
DBTC
Meltham

sions1 · Post by **sions1** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 2:30 am

I will consider this method but I would prefer the dimensions because I have it tore apart now.

Madders · Post by **Madders** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 11:26 pm

you must have too much spare time fella!!!

Scooby · Post by **Scooby** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 8:21 am

I thought the pawl was semi-hardened anyway. Would mild steel will last very long ?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:21 am

If you make your own pawl, which is easy with the right size bit of steel rod, heat it up to cherry red and dunk it in some old sump oil to cool it fast, this will case harden it and it will last for years. These pawls will last a lot longer still if you pull up the handbrake and then twist instead of letting the pawl ride the notches I was always told to push in the button and then pull up the handbrake when I started driving a car. If only people looked after their tractors like they do their cars!

John_Allen · Post by **John_Allen** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:10 am

I used an HT bolt (3/8 UNF I think), the length is just under the diameter of the handbrake rod (so it will go down the hole!) and cut a notch with an angle grinder - this is the actual "pawl" bit that engages the notches in the handbrake. It isn't precision engineering - some trial and error may be required!

Oh yes, I cut off the head and used the smooth shank - so perhaps it is precision engineering after all!

Powerrabbit - I haven't washed the car, checked its oil/water etc for over a month and,while the Fergy is taking more than its usual space in the garage, have to back almost to the back wall or I can't get out (and sometimes attempt to overshoot

). I won't treat my tractors that badly even if you tell me to

Scooby · Post by **Scooby** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 6:06 pm

Powerrabbit wrote: I was always told to push in the button and then pull up the handbrake when I started driving a car. If only people looked after their tractors like they do their cars!

Not pushing in the button on the handbrake is called "bus driving" around these parts. I even got the good lady to do it properly now.

jimc1390 · Post by **jimc1390** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:31 pm

have a dis similar rod and build it up then take it back to the right shape

sions1 · Post by **sions1** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 10:32 am

I made the piece now I can't figure out how to get it back in the inner hole.

ridgerunner1965 · Post by **ridgerunner1965** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:58 am

on my 880 there is hole which i overlooked at first lower down on the opposite side of the hand brake tunnel. with handbrake shaft out of the bore, stik your finger up from the bottom of the bore to guide it in while yu push it in the thru the hole i just described which may be clogged with grease and junk.also remember the hole is at a angle and the pawl will be going upward as yu slide it in.much easier done than explained.dont forget the spring that goes in first. i coated everything with sticky grease to keep it from dropping out in the grass.hope this helps.

johnh · Post by **johnh** » Sun Sep 01, 2013 2:50 pm

hi,

i just made my new pawl today.

a bit of 10mm bolt approx. 13mm long. it was a worn threaded section of the bolt as i couldn;t find anything at all to hand that was non-threaded and 10mm. i didn't cut a notch as i couldn't work out how it would stay the right way up anyway. to install i pushed the thing in from the bottom with my finger and then pushed an allen key (short end, as that's all that space will allow) up and through the lower side hole to push it in against the spring. then i inserted the brake handle and pushed the allen key in until it passed. it was quite easy to install in fact.

only tried the handbrake a few times and it seems to be working fine.

will make hitching up things a lot easier than they used to be!

case-ih1594 · Post by **case-ih1594** » Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:45 am

Repairing these handbrakes is the sort of job that is easy to do once you have done it. The frst one is frustrating but you can learn from your mistakes. The problem is you rarely need to repair another. I'd recommend getting a genuine pawl but if you have to make one I'd study it and try to make a notch so it sits correct and it will self level. I have done a few on 770/885 and one some the pawl can be punched out using a punch as there is a hole drilled in the housing. On some there is no hole and the pawl is siezed in. You need lots of WD40 / penetrating oil here and I have often had to punch the pawl in further to get some movement. Worth it in the end as long as the spring hold out and pushes out the pawl.

manxmac · Post by **manxmac** » Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:17 am

Fascinating how some phrases such as "Bus Driving" remain in (very) occasional use long after the original reason is lost in the mists of time. Back in the not so good old days all HGVs had manual handbrakes, a very long handbrake lever attached to a ratchet which the driver sawed away at until you got the right degree of braking. Ratcheted a small way would supplement the foot brake and hold the vehicle in check on a hill whilst double declutching which was known as a "check change". HGV brakes were hopeless, some with no servo or air assistance. Up until the 60's HGV drivers were tough men who worked incredible hours in dangerous vehicles froze in the winter, cooked in the summer had a perennial ciggie smouldering, existed (as now) on pasties & pies and had very strong right arms! Thank God for the Swedes!

fred_codown · Post by **fred_codown** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 10:18 pm

I had a few problems getting my 1966 Selectamatic 990 pawl out as well, but the heat + spray release trick, as mentioned in other posts, did the job well in the end. I also found rotating the pawl with an angled bolt (cut with the angle grinder) encouraged it to pop out - see attached picture.

The spring that came out with the pawl seemed very short - on reassembly I had to fit a spring twice its length to get the pawl to sit outside the hole and ratchet properly. Does anyone know what the proper length of the spring should be? Mine is now about 1 inch long !

Cheers

Fred

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