1967 990 engine block

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Banwee40
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Joined: Thu Apr 11, 2019 4:58 am
Location: Gloucestershire

1967 990 engine block

Post by Banwee40 » Sat May 18, 2019 8:48 pm

Hi How what would be a reasonable price for a second hand 990 engine block.
Looking forward to your responses.

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cobbadog
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Location: beautiful Coopernook NSW. near Taree. NSW. Australia

Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by cobbadog » Sun May 19, 2019 7:09 am

I've never had to buy one for any of the toys but I guess a few factors have to be thought about. Is it what we call a short motor which means everything is there but may need reconditioning or is a bare block where everything is missing and requires all the bits to be added?
Have a look at other engines for sale for a comparison to get an idea of what you would expect to pay.
The other thing to consider is how many are available and how much you need it now!

Banwee40
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by Banwee40 » Sun May 19, 2019 7:39 am

Hi thanks for the reply I am new to this but I noticed a small crack in my engine block it leaks bit only very slightly a couple of drips when running for 10 mins about a teaspoon full. I have checked the oil and it is free from any gunge which means it is an external crack only. I think. Just saw a 990 engine block for sale and thought it might be wise to get one incase the leak gets any worse. On the other hand could the crack be sealed without the expense of stitching. Ie putting something into the water like k seal or steel seal. I know that some puritans will moan but she is only used for chain harrowing,topping and emptying a much trailer.
Looking forward to your response
Harry.

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cobbadog
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by cobbadog » Mon May 20, 2019 6:49 am

You can use a sealant but remember that will also want to start sealing the radiator core as well. Stitching is the best solution but so is welding. If it is in an easy access area welding would be my choice if you don't want to replace the block.

What price is on the block advertised and can you be certain that it doesn't have a crack as well?

The level of the repair will dictate how long it will last and how good it will be.

Banwee40
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by Banwee40 » Mon May 20, 2019 7:06 pm

Hi didn't realise you could weld an engine block shows how much I know lol.

TEZB
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by TEZB » Mon May 20, 2019 7:43 pm

if you buy another block make sure it is the right one, AD/47 or AD/49, I suspect yours is probably a AD/47 but just check the engine number

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cobbadog
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by cobbadog » Tue May 21, 2019 6:57 am

With welding there are a number of different approaches with type and grade of arc welding rod that can be used. Some require preheating and some not so critical. Using oxy welding they can be joined and sealed using bronze rods. these will leave a distinctive wide fillet when done properly but it will work. I have welded cast iron lugs back onto a hit n miss engine and using my arc welder and the correct rods with some heating prior to striking the arc and making short runs then peening it (hammering) to gain extra strength has been a very successful repair.

Gard
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by Gard » Tue May 21, 2019 2:43 pm

When I bought my non running 1965 DB990 with AD4/47 engine about 30 years ago it had a crack in block that had been welded but was leaking some coolant. The gasket had been removed from radiator cap to prevent pressure. I drilled and tapped a series of holes around the area and bolted a plate in place with silicone gasket material, installed new radiator cap and thermostat. I have had no problems with that since. I don't remember if I removed the injector pump to gain access but in any case it was way easier than replacing the block. If I did think I needed a new engine I think I would be looking for a complete tractor, running tractors with some issues show up on the internet for around $1000 usd if you keep your eyes open

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db2d
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by db2d » Tue May 21, 2019 3:02 pm

Try the easiest options first, flush the system and then add K-Seal or equivalents. Welding is very rarely successful and usually ends up as a disaster unless done professionally which is very expensive.

SteveCollett
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Location: Suffolk

Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by SteveCollett » Tue May 21, 2019 5:07 pm

if it is just an external crack it can be brazed, which is softer and has more give. Welding risks making a crack nearby

Banwee40
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by Banwee40 » Tue May 21, 2019 7:05 pm

Thanks all for your thoughts given me plenty to consider.

Banwee40
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by Banwee40 » Tue May 21, 2019 7:13 pm

If I use seal as steel do I need to take thermostat out?,only it said on the tin that I may need to take it out. So I am confused thought it was just a case of pour it in the radiator.

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cobbadog
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by cobbadog » Wed May 22, 2019 7:14 am

Can't imagine why the thermostat would need to be removed as soon as the engine warms up it should open to allow the sealant to circulate.
I like the idea of a plate as well, simple but effective.
Welding is successful when done correctly and if you are unsure of your ability get someone who can do the job for you.
Brazing is another form of using bronze only the bronze is slightly stronger but the brazing will handle the job well.

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ollek
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Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by ollek » Wed May 22, 2019 8:47 am

It will take ages for the thermostat to open when there is no or only light load on the engine. It is even possible that the thermostat will not open at all with no load on the engine. This is normal for David Brown engines when operated in normal UK temperatures.

Banwee40
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Joined: Thu Apr 11, 2019 4:58 am
Location: Gloucestershire

Re: 1967 990 engine block

Post by Banwee40 » Wed May 22, 2019 10:14 am

So does that mean that the sealant won't get into the engine until the thermostat is open

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