990 slectamatic hydraulic problem, oil grade

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olorin
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 5:29 pm
Location: Hungary

990 slectamatic hydraulic problem, oil grade

Post by olorin » Thu May 28, 2015 7:58 am

Hi, I have a 990 selectamatic and I have a lifting issue.
This is my first tractor so I am quite beginner.
The lift works only cold but the arm hold the weight any time.
I have changed all of oil and I guess the transmission oil is wrong grade.
I use double function transmission and hydraulic oil SAE 80w. Is this the right choose?
If this is wrong can this give rise other trouble for example pump fraying.
What is this tractor lifting capacity? I would like use 650 litre hand sprayer (850kg). In the specification that is available, but I dont know the lifting capacity is meaning the weight the end of lift arm or at the 3 Point lower arm.
It is good idea if I hang the sprayer and I use the lift arm lock?

Thank you in advance.

Guest

RE: 990 slectamatic hydraulic problem, oil grade

Post by Guest » Thu May 28, 2015 8:32 am

The correct grade of transmission oil, which serves the gearbox, rear axle and hydraulics, is the same as for the engine, 15W30 Universal, STOU and SUTO oil are both the same, 'universal'. The lifting capacity of the hydraulics is 2000 lb (907 kg) maximum load at the end of the links. If you obtain an operators handbook for the tractor it will give you the operating, maintenance and service instructions.

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olorin
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 5:29 pm
Location: Hungary

RE: 990 slectamatic hydraulic problem, oil grade

Post by olorin » Thu May 28, 2015 12:40 pm

Thank you for the confirmation of my suspect.I am from Hungary and it made this more difficult, because all standards and most units is different. I have an operator's handbook, but it is very old and I was not sure this specification is valid with today's oils too.

Guest

RE: 990 slectamatic hydraulic problem, oil grade

Post by Guest » Thu May 28, 2015 1:18 pm

There are differences in modern oils compared to those of that period, the main difference being that the old oils were mineral and the modern ones are synthetic or semi-synthetic, the modern oil is okay for the back end of the tractor but try to avoid it and use mineral for the engine. You can gradually 'wean' the engine over to synthetic by mixing it with mineral, a little at a time between oil service changes gradually increasing the mix to pure synthetic, the engines were not designed for synthetic oil but once weaned onto it you will need to change the oil and filter more regularly as there is more detergent in it.

Scooby
Posts: 3929
Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 8:16 pm
Location: Warwickshire

Re: RE: 990 slectamatic hydraulic problem, oil grade

Post by Scooby » Sat May 30, 2015 9:52 am

Powerrabbit wrote:There are differences in modern oils compared to those of that period, the main difference being that the old oils were mineral and the modern ones are synthetic or semi-synthetic, the modern oil is okay for the back end of the tractor but try to avoid it and use mineral for the engine. You can gradually 'wean' the engine over to synthetic by mixing it with mineral, a little at a time between oil service changes gradually increasing the mix to pure synthetic, the engines were not designed for synthetic oil but once weaned onto it you will need to change the oil and filter more regularly as there is more detergent in it.
PR. You are giving some quite questionable advice there I would have thought. While I am no metallurgist, nor am I an expert on engine design I would have thought that your suggestion that people should gradually start to use synthetic oils in engines that are, in many cases quite a few decades old, is questionable.

Remember that we have a lot of people who have come into the classic tractor movement without the experience that some of us are lucky to have attained, and they might just go into somewhere like Halfords and buy some cheap alternative to the reccomended lubricant. Then when the engine throws a rod or something they could come back to the Forum and blame the DBTC Members and the DBTC. We don't actually want or need that. As usual of course I stand to be corrected on any of the above.
ImageImage


Three is twee, four does snore, but 6 just clicks........Scooby

John_Allen
Posts: 1894
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:59 pm
Location: Cumbria UK

RE: Re: RE: 990 slectamatic hydraulic problem, oil grade

Post by John_Allen » Sat May 30, 2015 10:06 am

Having nearly ruined the engine in my old Passat by trying to change to synthetic, I can only echo Scooby's concern. If changing to synthetic, change ALL the oil and filter and repeat the change at about 200-300 miles (or tractor equivalent). Then repeat the oil and filter change at 200 miles and, over a long period, work it up to about 5,000 miles. In my current Golf, this would take about three years (I'm only doing 2,500 miles a year!). however, the Golf already uses synthetic oil - and it still needs changing every year!

I wouldn't use synthetic in an old tractor as the oil tends to be rather thin and designed to clean a lot more "by-products" from the engine. Neither are good for old engines with larger clearances between bearings etc - and the "grot" from older engines actually helps to seal some of the gaps!

I don't know what oils are available in Hungary, but suggest that, if you can't get the equivalent of "Tractor Oil Universal", look for something suitable for an old diesel van (eg VW LT of the late 70s). The SAE figures are more or less a universal standard (it's an American standard that the Americans don't necessarily follow!). My niece lives in Romania, perhaps I should try and find out what it used there - it may be a similar specification!

The oil in the transmission should be the same as the oil in the engine (which is probably the answer to your original question!)

Lifting capacity for a 990 is 907kg max - this may be lower if your hydraulics aren't in good condition!

I'd be very careful about using the linkage lock with a heavy load on the arms as it can break if you go over rough ground and make the thing bounce. The lock wasn't fitted to newer or larger tractors because of this problem!

broadsword
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Location: Holmfirth, Huddersfield

Post by broadsword » Sat May 30, 2015 12:41 pm

Trade it for a Universal / Belarus / Zetor / Ursus !!! :wink: .

As John says any car/van mineral oil will be ok but old spec - 15/30 wasn`t really popular for cars etc but 10/40, 15/40, 20/50 etc should be ok - anything you would put in a 1970`s / 1980`s diesel engine but without the word synthetic in there.

Good Luck.

Andy

Guest

Post by Guest » Sat May 30, 2015 1:18 pm

I stand by what I said in gradually weaning the engine off mineral to synthetic or semi-synthetic by gradually introducing the synthetic by mixing it to the mineral in ever increasing amounts, 1 in 4, 2 in 4, 3 in 4 and then straight but as I said, you need to increase the oil and filter change periods because of the greater detergent content and action of the synthetic. The important thing that you must remember is to use the same grade oil as the original recommendation. If you Google 'running older engines on synthetic oil' there is a lot of information there.

broadsword
Posts: 1707
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:17 pm
Location: Holmfirth, Huddersfield

Post by broadsword » Sat May 30, 2015 1:30 pm

Why bother over complicating the issue with essentially spending a lot of money weaning engine oils to change over to synthetic meaning extra oil changes - are we adding the synthetic to the `old oil` or putting new mineral oil in and then adding in which case you have a load of new oil in anyway????

Simple - stick Mineral in - its the cheapest and simplest option.

Keep it simple - talking for the sense of talking yet again.

Cheers

Andy

John_Allen
Posts: 1894
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:59 pm
Location: Cumbria UK

Post by John_Allen » Sat May 30, 2015 2:18 pm

Surely the main point of synthetic oils is to reduce the frequency of oil changes. That's why my diesel-engined Golf is supposed to be able to do 20K between oil changes: it was set to "Variable Frequency" service intervals and had four changes in the 112K miles before I bought it.

That being the case, is it not more logical to stay with the oil the manufacturer recommends. That's not even mentioning the extra cost of a quality synthetic oil!!

I was told in no uncertain terms NEVER to mix synthetic and mineral oils. That was by someone who knows about the subject - not an "Internet Myth".

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bedwards1966
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Location: North Yorkshire

Post by bedwards1966 » Sat May 30, 2015 7:37 pm

Synthetic oils in engines built for use with mineral oil seems to give a few people headaches, not just on this forum.

The right or wrong way to run an engine on synthetic isn't clear to me, all I can find out for certain is that it may cause problems and I certainly won't be trying to do this on any of my engines.

I'd sooner have a mineral oil that isn't exactly the same spec (e.g use 10/40 or 20/40 if 15/40 or 15/30 isn't available) than anything synthetic, or semi synthetic.

Sadly, I don't know how SAE 80 hydraulic oil compares with the grades we find in this country so can't comment on whether this tractor has the wrong stuff in or not.


As to using the lift lock to hold the sprayer up, I wouldn't do it. It's a lot of weight on the latch, and I think the purpose of the latch is more for light loads and/or as a safety device while maintenance is being carried out. Driving the machine will inevitably give it a lot more to do as it goes over bumps and gives a much greater risk of it breaking.

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