Problem when shifting gears on a DB 1690

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lungu
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Location: Romania

Problem when shifting gears on a DB 1690

Post by lungu » Tue Nov 11, 2014 8:48 pm

Hi everyone!
I’m in possession of a David Brown 1690 and I encountered a problem when shifting gears. Sometimes it remains stuck in third gear and it goes really hard in first and reverse. The clutch engages with no problem.
From what I read on the forum, this doesn’t mean that this is necessary a gearbox problem.
Can anyone give me a idea on what the problem might be?

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mistermcgregor
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Location: Southampton

RE: Problem when shifting gears on a DB 1690

Post by mistermcgregor » Thu Nov 13, 2014 10:20 am

Could you post the tractor serial number please

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case-ih1594
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Location: Preston

RE: Problem when shifting gears on a DB 1690

Post by case-ih1594 » Thu Nov 13, 2014 11:22 am

Hi, is there definitely sufficient clean oil in the gearbox and have you tried oiling (WD40 or similar) the gear lever mechanism ?

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erkki
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RE: Problem when shifting gears on a DB 1690

Post by erkki » Thu Nov 13, 2014 1:50 pm

Are the 1:st and R grinding when trying to engage, or do they just require more power on wrist?
2:nd and 3rd are engaged by different fork, so there should not be any connection between the poor engagement of all four gears.

W.B.R erkki

Guest

RE: Problem when shifting gears on a DB 1690

Post by Guest » Thu Nov 13, 2014 1:56 pm

Is the main gear lever rather sloppy?

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lungu
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Post by lungu » Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:06 pm

Last time I check the oil level in the gearbox it was above the refill level, and yes, there is grinding when trying to engage first and reverse.
When engaging third, the lever remains stuck and it’s hard to disengage.
The lever might be a little bit sloppy, but I don’t have any idea how it should normally be. This is my first David Brown.
I will check the oil level again.

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ollek
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Post by ollek » Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:29 pm

Grinding when trying to engage a gear and difficulties in getting out of gear is due to clutch drag. The clutch is not disengaging properly and therefore the input shafts in the gear box are rotating even when the clutch pedal is pressed fully down. The reason for this can be a small oil leak from the gear box or the engine that finds its way to the clutch plate. An other possibility is that the clutch plate is worn and needs to be replaced.

Guest

Post by Guest » Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:34 pm

It could also be that the clutch fluid reservoir is low on fluid and needs topping up or possibly the actuating mechanism under the cab needs adjustment. Look at and eliminate the simpler things first.

JamesF
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Location: South Yorkshire

Post by JamesF » Thu Nov 13, 2014 6:45 pm

If it's difficult to engage all 4 gears it could well be the clutch not clearing fully as ollek suggested.

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lungu
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Post by lungu » Thu Nov 13, 2014 7:18 pm

I will recheck the oil level in the clutch fluid reservoir and adjust the actuating mechanism under the cab.
I was preparing for a complete engine rebuild next month. This just means that I’ll do this next week and then I will check the clutch plate too.

Thanks for all the information!

Guest

Post by Guest » Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:27 pm

After checking the fluid level and establishing that it's ok, have the tractor engine rev to around 1200rpm, engage gear 2 in high range and with your foot pressing the brakes down, slowly lift your foot on the clutch pedal and see how far you have to raise it before the clutch 'bites', if it bites about half way to three quarters then your clutch is ok, if it 'slips' or bites very near the top then the clutch plate is worn, if adjusting the clutch mechanism does not improve this then the plate needs replacing.

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erkki
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Post by erkki » Fri Nov 14, 2014 3:46 pm

Puufff. The common problem is that Standard DOT 4 brake fluid is added to the clutch main reservoir. It causes the gasket swell up and cause poor engagement/disengagement.

I quess you might need a set of new gaskets to th emain(slave cylinder and correct type of fluid before trying anything else. Unfortunately this has happenend many times before.

W.B.R erkki
Last edited by erkki on Sat Nov 15, 2014 8:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

Guest

Post by Guest » Fri Nov 14, 2014 6:54 pm

If the seal has gone in either the master or slave cylinder it usually shows by leakage so this would be worth looking at. The correct fluid for both brakes and clutch is LHM mineral fluid available from a CaseIH dealer or from an auto garage that services and repairs Citroen and Peugeot cars, these use the same stuff. DOT fluid will melt the seals so don't use this.

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GeoffDEAL
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Post by GeoffDEAL » Fri Nov 14, 2014 7:45 pm

Hi apart from other things mentioned if everything is working correctly, it is easier on the gears- no grinding to engage - if you first select one of the sycro gears 2nd or 3rd before engaging 1st or Reverse.

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lungu
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Location: Romania

Post by lungu » Mon Mar 16, 2015 7:42 am

Finally, I started The engine rebuild.
The engine is in rather good shape, it just needes new piston rings and one of the injectors needed a new nozzle because the spray pattern wasn't good.
However, I managed to find myself facing a new problem. When splitting the tractor to check the clutch, I accidentally pulled a few inches out, what I believe is the input shaft and it wil not fit back.
What do I need to do/dismantle to fit back the imput shaft?

The problem is visible in the picture.

Image


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