Hyd problems 1210 case

The place to discuss all matters relating to David Brown Tractors. You will need to register your user name before you can post. If you have already registered could you please make sure that your location details have been completed. Go to My Account in the Main Menu on the left, and then go into "Edit Your Information" and complete your location details. Give the Country (and State/Province if you wish) if outside the U.K. County if within the U.K. Location details helps other members if you need spares, technical advice, or the nearest practical help.

DISCLAIMER -

David Brown Tractor Club Ltd
Forum/website Disclaimer

1. This [forum/website/chat room] and the advice and opinions expressed herein is not a solution for mechanical, electrical, valuations, other problems, breakdowns or issues experienced in relation to the vehicles referenced.

2. If reliance is thought to be placed on any of the information guidance or input provided such information will be expressly confirmed as appropriate to be relied upon.

3. In the absence of any such confirmation no reliance should be suggested or inferred.

4. Members must not disclose information to 3rd parties in anticipation that reliance will be given by non-members.

5. Non-members must not purport to give advice on behalf of David Brown Tractor Club.

6. If you or someone you know is experiencing difficulties or repeated breakdowns you must seek assistance for an appropriately qualified expert who holds themselves out as such.

7. Any comments are free of charge and made or posted on an ex gratia basis. No member or non-member may advertise their professional services

Any user inactive for more than 3 months will automatically be deactivated, please contact admin@dbtc.co.uk if you would like to be reactivated.

Please be aware that your user name and entered location can be seen by all members. We only store information you have entered which is your email address and username, your IP is also stored, we have no access to private passwords.

If you do not agree with your information being stored, please do not register an account, If you wish to unsubscribe at any time please email admin@dbtc.co.uk giving your username.

Amended 27/10/18

Moderators: Segrie61, admin

Post Reply
Joe_D.
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 5:28 pm
Location: Arkansas,USA

Hyd problems 1210 case

Post by Joe_D. » Tue May 06, 2014 11:06 pm

I have searched the forum to see if some one else has had this problem but was unable to find an answer.

Let me say first that I have a 1210 IH Case purchased new in 1978 and the tractor has been sitting outside for the

last 2 years without being started or run during that time. I changed Hyd Fluid and pulled the valve chest out and

and freed up all the valves except the RATE OF LOWERING VALVE.

First question is does any body have a suggestion on freeing up the Rate of Lowering valve in the valve chest. I have

soaked it in penetrating oil for 4 or five days and have made an adapter to blow air thru "lowering control adjuster",

but have not budged it yet. The valve seems to be stuck down in the bore, so I can not push it down to break it loose,

that is the reason for trying to blow air below the valve

My reason for pulling the valve chest was that with the engine running the 3 point lift would raise with out putting

the handle in raised position and would not lower until I shut the engine off.

My second question is would this valve cause the problem that I have.

When I pulled the ram shaft bracket I discovered the push rod that works off of the ramshaft cam bent and distorted

and I have no idea how this happened or when, all I know is that something malfunctioned in the Hyd system to cause

this since I noticed this as soon as I pulled the cover off. My next question is could this be causing my lowering

problem.

I will try to attach a couple of pictures of the bent push rod if anybody thinks it would help.

Thank You, Joe

User avatar
odin
Posts: 662
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 9:31 pm
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire.

RE: Hyd problems 1210 case

Post by odin » Wed May 07, 2014 3:56 am

Two initial points;-

First you mentioned "hydraulic fluid"? Whilst it is a hydraulic system, the oil is NOT hydraulic oil. The oil in the system is from the gearbox which uses a 20/50 or a 15/40 oil. If a hydraulic oil has been used then that will be the cause of valves sticking in the chest. The "malfunction" as to quote.
I bought one with this problem. Had to remove the valve chest and spend a lot of time carefully removing valves that had gone tight in their parent housing. Using a set of small brass drifts and working engine oil in with wire wool to get things moving.

Secondly if the lift latch is bent then it has been damaged with a heavy implement where the hydraulics should have been used to hold the load.

Regards

User avatar
ollek
Posts: 3898
Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:20 pm
Location: South West Finland

RE: Hyd problems 1210 case

Post by ollek » Wed May 07, 2014 5:55 am

Joe D wrote "the push rod that works off of the ramshaft cam bent and distorted". Do you mean the vertical push rod on the right hand side? It this is the case, it must be because the rod or the spool valve sticking so, that the push rod can not move downwards. And then, if the 3-point hitch is constantly lifting, the problem is in a stuck latching valve or the latching valve sleeve becoming loose and turned in the bore. The sleeve is not shown in any parts books. If the hitch only lift with a pressure of maximum 50 bar, the reason can be a TCU valve that is stuck in the maximum pressure position (up). The rate of lowering valve will not give constant lift.

User avatar
DB780
Posts: 1639
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 4:06 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Post by DB780 » Wed May 07, 2014 8:27 am

You could try using a stud extractor or maybe a tap to remove the stuck valve.

User avatar
ollek
Posts: 3898
Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:20 pm
Location: South West Finland

Post by ollek » Wed May 07, 2014 9:18 am

I forgot one thing. If the spool valve is stuck in lift (down) position the hitch will constantly lift and the cam plate tries to push the rod down for lifting the spool valve. The total movement of the spool valve is about 2,5 mm and must be adjusted to a accuracy of 1/1000 of an inch. The figure is written on the bottom face of the valve plunger. When you had the valve chest out, did you perform all the adjustments correctly and in the right order?

Joe_D.
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 5:28 pm
Location: Arkansas,USA

Post by Joe_D. » Wed May 07, 2014 2:56 pm

Thanks to all of you for your reponses to my problem

I will try to clarify my initial post
odin wrote:Two initial points;-
I only mentioned "hydraulic fluid"? because that is what my origional owners manual calls the fluid, the reason that I

changed the oil is because the shifter boot had cracked and let rain water in.

[quote="odi"Secondly if the lift latch is bent then it has been damaged with a heavy implement where the hydraulics

should have been used to hold the load."

I do not understand you on this point, please clarify

DB780 wrote:You could try using tractor or maybe a tap to remove the stuck valve.

The way this valve is designed there is now way to use a tap or stud extractor without destroying the valve. Thanks

for your suggestion any way.
ollek wrote:Joe D wrote "the push rod that works off of the ramshaft cam bent and distorted". Do you mean the

vertical push rod on the right hand side? If this is the case, it must be because the rod or the spool valve sticking

so, that the push rod can not move downwards.

The rod that I am refering to is 2 flat pieces of metal joined together by 2 rollers and works off of the ramshaft cam

And then, if the 3-point hitch is constantly lifting, the problem is in a stuck latching valve or the latching valve

sleeve becoming loose and turned in the bore. The sleeve is not shown in any parts books.

How can I tell if the latching valve sleeve has turned in the bore?

If the hitch only lift with a pressure of maximum 50 bar, the reason can be a TCU valve that is stuck in the maximum pressure position (up). The

rate of lowering valve will not give constant lift.
That is good to know that the rate of lowering valve will not cause constant lift. What problem would it cause? I will

recheck the TCU valve and let you know about it.
ollek wrote:I forgot one thing. If the spool valve is stuck in lift (down) position the hitch will constantly lift

and the cam plate tries to push the rod down for lifting the spool valve. The total movement of the spool valve is

about 2,5 mm and must be adjusted to a accuracy of 1/1000 of an inch. The figure is written on the bottom face of the

valve plunger. When you had the valve chest out, did you perform all the adjustments correctly and in the right

order?
ollek I have not reinstalled the valve chest yet so I have not perform the adjustments that you refered too. I have not removed the spool valve from its bore because I can move the valve against the spring pressure with my thumb and it seems to work real free and smooth, if you think I need to remove it from the valve chest I will.
Thank you, Joe

User avatar
ollek
Posts: 3898
Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:20 pm
Location: South West Finland

Post by ollek » Wed May 07, 2014 3:45 pm

If you remove the latching valve and the by-pass valve plungers you will find a small drilling in the bore fore the by-pass valve (just below the treaded part of the boring). This drilling is pointing against the latching valve. If you now bend a piece of wire so that you can push the wire in the drilling, the end of the wire must come out inside the latching valve sleeve. If this will not happen, the sleeve has turned and is preventing the oil flow from the top of the by-pass valve to get to the spool valve. This results in constant lift as the control pressure on top of the by-pass valve will not drop, so the valve will not open and let the pump flow to the transmission lubrication pipes. The rod you are talking about is the position control rod and it has one roller at the top. I have the feeling that someone has been in there and putted the parts together in the wrong way, resulting in the damaging of the control rod. You will have to find a new rod. By the way, the rod can get damaged if the cam plate is fitted the wrong way around.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 8 guests