Allow me to introduce myself

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ozzie
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:16 pm
Location: USA. North Carolina. Wilson.

Allow me to introduce myself

Post by ozzie » Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:35 pm

I just became the owner of a DB 780, I am located in the US, but am a British ex-pat. This is my first tractor ever, bought primarily as a worker because I just bought a new property, with a rather large pasture, and 18 hours on a riding mower was wearing thin. Hopefully I'll be able to glean a lot of info on this unit. It actually runs well, PTO and lift work fine, but it's hurting cosmetically, and the brakes? Well, lets just say you need to think about stopping. The area I live in is heavily agricultural, but there is not a lot of knowledge about the DB's to be found. Hopefully I'll find the ID tag this week and determine the actual year, and replace a couple of smaller parts that I need. Picures to come. I hopefully will locate a brush hog in the next two week, missed a couple at an auction last week, but I was busy purchasing some other stuff......

John_Allen
Posts: 1894
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:59 pm
Location: Cumbria UK

RE: Allow me to introduce myself

Post by John_Allen » Mon Apr 29, 2013 6:33 pm

Some will argue, but I reckon the 780 is one of DB's better models - compact and plenty of punch. The 3-pot engine is probably the best 3-pot diesel engine ever built (and I have driven plenty of 3-pot tractors and a VW Polo with a 3-pot diesel engine).

Another good thing is that you can do most of the jobs single handed (I wouldn't like to change the brake linings on my 995 without help, but I did with the 780). Just check some of the other posts about changing brake linings - it is important to tie the diff lock pedal down!!

Tin work is difficult to obtain - even a rotten bonnet (hood!) goes for "good money". There are pattern parts for the bonnet sides and chin piece that appear occasionally, the nose cone seems to have disappeared for the moment (though is often for a late 880 so hasn't got the hole for the badge) and wings appear now and then. Of course, shipping would be a major cost.

Don't forget to make friends with a good Case-IH dealer as a few have the brains needed to realise that they can still get some DB parts!

Enjoy the tractor and don't be afraid to ask "daft" questions: there are a lot of friendly and knowledgeable folk on the forum - some are very keen to help!!
Last edited by John_Allen on Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Eric_T
Posts: 1408
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 11:57 am
Location: North Wales

RE: Allow me to introduce myself

Post by Eric_T » Mon Apr 29, 2013 6:37 pm

Hello,

All that John said, plus one more thing...

Join the David Brown Tractor Club! There are several benefits of doing so, cheaper parts, quarterly magazine, the continuation of free advice on this forum to name just a few things!

:)

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ozzie
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:16 pm
Location: USA. North Carolina. Wilson.

RE: Allow me to introduce myself

Post by ozzie » Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:31 pm

Thanks, Looking forward to digging into this thing, I have a pretty well equipped shop(retired mechanic) My sheetmetal is actually in pretty good shape, the grill is missing, replaced by a sheet of perforated aluminum(should I say aluminium?), the right side foot rest took a hit upwards, bending the fender a bit, but that should be a simple hammer and dolly fix. The bonnet has some rust in the lower front, someone attempted to weld it up, but obviosly wasn't skilled with a welder. Tieing the diff lock pedal down shouldn't be hard(right heel?) Because it's stuck in the down position and doesn't budge. 1st on my list is a service manual........ Ummm? Where's the parking brake?.... As I said, I'm a tractor neophyte, got a lot to learn. I did get to use it the other day to move my 30ft, all steel, I beam, centerlift pontoon trailer, not a problem, even dragging it through the bottom 40, which right now is partially submerged(Beaver problem)....I was impressed, even my Jeep doesn't like to go down there.....
DB780

User avatar
dj
Posts: 376
Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 8:10 pm
Location: West Wales

RE: Allow me to introduce myself

Post by dj » Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:20 pm

Hi Ozzie, and welcome.

Well... we do tend to say Aluminium on this side of the Atlantic.
But that little controversy isn't going to disturb the mods.

Discussing Beaver problems on here before the hours of darkness however, is rather uncharted territory .....

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ozzie
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:16 pm
Location: USA. North Carolina. Wilson.

RE: Allow me to introduce myself

Post by ozzie » Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:08 pm

Living here in the US, I've learned to speak several languages, English, American, Mechanic, Spanglish, and redneck.....among others.....And I'm known for digging into uncharted territory, that's my English heritage. Mom was from Yorkshire, Dad hailed from Glouchestershire. I grew up in the Forest of Dean, and Wakefield, moving to the US in 79, right after I finished High School. I finally settled down in NC, after living on both coasts and a couple of other countries. Now I'm just another country boy, who "speaks funny".... :D
DB780

John_Allen
Posts: 1894
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:59 pm
Location: Cumbria UK

RE: Allow me to introduce myself

Post by John_Allen » Mon Apr 29, 2013 11:01 pm

The handbrake is a "flat umbrella handle" between the hydraulic quadrant and the gearbox. It should have a ratchet on it and it's a case of pull up and turn to engage, pull slightly and turn to release - and hope you "hit" the ratchet straight away. It just takes a little practice to get the knack of it. Mind you, I find it annoying after a day or two with the 995, where the handle is to the outside of the hydraulic lever: you can guess that it takes two shots to get the 780's handle after that!

Just thinking: "another country boy who speaks funny". Isn't that a description of a Yorkshire man? :wink: The advantage of being a moderator is that we can alter the replies...

User avatar
ozzie
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:16 pm
Location: USA. North Carolina. Wilson.

RE: Allow me to introduce myself

Post by ozzie » Tue Apr 30, 2013 1:22 pm

I guess I hit the country boy description on the head......LOL Couple of quick questions. I tinkered with it last night, The Diff lock was seized in the up position, a liberal application of heat to the pedal pivot fixed that. There is a dipstick in front of the shift levers, I assume its for the hydraulics. The fluid is nasty and milky, How to drain? clean the filter, and what oil to refill with?
There is a sensor of some sort in the left side of the block, not connected to anything, seems to have a threaded shaft and two pins, what is this?
Also believe the hydraulic control has been changed, I'll upload a picture of what I have in a couple of days.
Under the rear end, on the bottom, is what appears to be another sensor with a single wire hook up, wondering what this is also.
The parking brake will not lock, I feel it catching but it never fully grabs, allowing the handle to slide back down. I assume there is some kind of ball inside the housing, how do I get this working?
Found a PDF file of the service manual for download, hopefully, when I get another paycheck, I can grab this.

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ozzie
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:16 pm
Location: USA. North Carolina. Wilson.

Post by ozzie » Tue Apr 30, 2013 2:26 pm

Almost forgot, found the ID tag on the left rear fender. 780/1 602721
So I know it's definatly a 780, selectamatic with a direct drive pto. But what year?
Been practicing my crash box shifting, haven't done that since I drove an old Double Decker bus in Charlotte(came in the shop for some custom exhaust work)in the 90's......My diesel knowledge is limited, does this have glow plugs? looking at it, I don't see any, but there has to be an ignition source.....
So many questions........sorry...

Eric_T
Posts: 1408
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 11:57 am
Location: North Wales

Post by Eric_T » Tue Apr 30, 2013 4:48 pm

Some quick answers...

The Dipstick is for the hydraulics, which share the same oil as the Gearbox.

DB Hydraulics are sensitive to dirt, cleanliness is extremly important, drain the milky rubbish out, put clean in, also change filters, do not try to clean them.

Dont do too much Crash box shifting, they are not synchromesh and unless done in perfect conditions when on the move, you are wearing out your gears...

You need to buy a Manual for your tractor, it will answer all questions you haveof this nature and more! The Club Sells Them... Have a look in the online shop...

:)

User avatar
ozzie
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:16 pm
Location: USA. North Carolina. Wilson.

Post by ozzie » Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:08 pm

Gearbox and rear end share also? I need to do both if not. What type of oil? I've seen different answers. Gonna pull the old beast into the garage tonight and drain the gearbox, and if I understand correctly, drop the pan and clean a screen in there, or is it a filter? If it's a filter, do you have a part number for a crossover, headed to my local Case dealer in about 15 minutes, hoping they have an old timer working, the youngsters can't find squat. I work in parts mmyself but automotive, I'm considered the old timer.....
DB780

John_Allen
Posts: 1894
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:59 pm
Location: Cumbria UK

Post by John_Allen » Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:20 pm

I suspect your tractor will be early 1969, mine is 602855 and was first registered in late June of that year.

The handbrake has a pawl and spring, they often stick (rust and dust) and the club shop sell replacements.

The gearbox and hydraulics use the same oil as the engine - a 15W 30 would be fine, though I could only get 15W40 the other day! It needs to be mineral oil - not synthetic (or semi-synthetic). You'll also need a filter (it's a large "pan" under the gearbox) - K920522 (the engine oil filter is K902125 and the fuel filters are K960911). The sensor in the middle of the back axle, above the drawbar, is for the hydraulic oil filter,

They don't have glow plugs or "thermostart" as standard. I don't think they need them unless it is really cold.

The gearbox isn't designed for shifting on the move (certainly not down the box). I seem to remember an instruction somewhere that said you should start - and stay - in the highest gear possible when driving on the road, though I wouldn't fancy setting off with a fully loaded three ton trailer in top - and wouldn't like to go far in a lower gear!

SteveCollett
Posts: 562
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:17 am
Location: Suffolk

Post by SteveCollett » Wed May 01, 2013 9:39 am

you must change the oils straight away if milky
also it is important to get new rubber boots for the gear sticks, as that is where the water gets in.
Dont worry about crash changes, it was on these little tractors I learnt to drive and it very quickly becomes second nature to cut the throttle back and dip the clutch together.
You will know straight away if it will slip inot the next gear
but do be careful as these old tractors often have very worn selectors and if you are not positive the lever can come out
if this happens take the four studs out holding the lever and use a large screw driver to line up the selectors again

User avatar
ozzie
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:16 pm
Location: USA. North Carolina. Wilson.

Post by ozzie » Wed May 01, 2013 1:15 pm

I hit up my local case dealer, they can get the hydraulic filter for me, but wow, I may have to take out a second mortgage.... The boots on the shifters are pretty rough, for now, I'm putting a 5 gallon bucket over them when not in use. I'mn trying to locate 15-30 oil, seems hard to come by around here, but I have found a 5 gallon jug of universal hydraulics fluid that is spec'd for David Brown tractors, about 46 bucks, looks like that will be the oil of choice.
DB780

User avatar
ozzie
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:16 pm
Location: USA. North Carolina. Wilson.

Post by ozzie » Wed May 01, 2013 4:38 pm

John_Allen wrote:I suspect your tractor will be early 1969, mine is 602855 and was first registered in late June of that year.

The handbrake has a pawl and spring, they often stick (rust and dust) and the club shop sell replacements.

The gearbox and hydraulics use the same oil as the engine - a 15W 30 would be fine, though I could only get 15W40 the other day! It needs to be mineral oil - not synthetic (or semi-synthetic). You'll also need a filter (it's a large "pan" under the gearbox) - K920522 (the engine oil filter is K902125 and the fuel filters are K960911). The sensor in the middle of the back axle, above the drawbar, is for the hydraulic oil filter,

They don't have glow plugs or "thermostart" as standard. I don't think they need them unless it is really cold.

The gearbox isn't designed for shifting on the move (certainly not down the box). I seem to remember an instruction somewhere that said you should start - and stay - in the highest gear possible when driving on the road, though I wouldn't fancy setting off with a fully loaded three ton trailer in top - and wouldn't like to go far in a lower gear!
After I purchased it, I got lucky and found a guy I know who flat bedded it to his house, for free. From there I drove it home, about 3 miles, my better half followed me with the hazards on. To drive on the road here we don't need special permits or registrations, just a set of flashers or a vehicle to follow. Not uncommon to get stuck behind a combine for 10 miles or so..... Tops out at about 20mph on the road.

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