Dump valve O rings

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wellies
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Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:47 pm
Location: Devon

Dump valve O rings

Post by wellies » Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:52 pm

Hi all

Finally tracked down a hydraulic leak on my 1594, it's coming from around the dump valve body. Looked in the IT manual and it looks to have 2 o rings.My question is, do I need to buy a pack of imperial or metric o-rings?

Guest

RE: Dump valve O rings

Post by Guest » Sun Apr 28, 2013 10:41 pm

It could be either, buy a repair kit, the kit serves both the earlier and later types of dump valve unit but you won't use everything in the kit on the 1594 one. There are several O rings on the dump valve, some of which you won't know are there until you dismantle it and when fitting the new ones lay them out in matching order to the old ones, if you don't fit the right one in its correct position the unit will still leak.

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wellies
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RE: Dump valve O rings

Post by wellies » Sun Apr 28, 2013 11:50 pm

Ok thanks, didn't realise there was a repair kit for it. That will make things easier!

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DB780
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Post by DB780 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:36 am

If your not having any 'hold' problems with your hydraulics then chances are it;s the small 'O' ring under the top cap that's leaking. This is easier to replace than fitting a full set of 'O' rings and you should be able to pick one up from a local supplier. The top cap just unscrews from the dump valve and if your lucky it will come off and leave the rest of the valve in place. Don't forget you need to clean the area very well before removing the valve or just the cap to prevent dirt dropping into the gearbox/hydraulics.

Guest

Post by Guest » Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:30 am

Wellies said that it is leaking around the body so this indicates that the outer sealing O ring has failed allowing oil to pass by the unit or if the oil is coming from the top of the unit where the plunger shaft comes out through then it's one or all the small O rings on the plunger shaft. Which ever it is the dump valve will need to be removed to replace the leaking O ring so whilst out it would be advisable to replace the entire set. One O ring that you may find confusing Wellies is the large diameter thin one, this one is situated up inside the top dome nut.

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DB780
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Post by DB780 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:37 am

Sorry if I have misled you by giving you the benefit of years of experience and using the the principal that if 'it not leaking leave it alone'. You can however remove the top cap without taking out the entire dump valve has most people will know who actually work on tractors!

Guest

Post by Guest » Mon Apr 29, 2013 11:17 am

Well, if you've managed to do it like that on a cabbed model then you've been lucky, nothing to do with 'experience' or any other twaddle you like to spout and anyone that has had genuine experience repairing leaks from the dump valve know that to do it properly you have to remove the whole unit, no shortcuts no bodges.

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DB780
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Post by DB780 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 12:06 pm

How can it be a bodge if you have cured the problem?

Guest

Post by Guest » Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:31 pm

How can the problem be cured if the chap has not as yet fixed it? This is getting rather silly. The original poster, which ever way he decides to fix the leak will find out for himself which is the best way to do it when he gets to it.

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DB780
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Post by DB780 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:05 pm

Yes whatever, lets hope he does not take the advise of someone who gets things wrong more often than not.

Eric_T
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Post by Eric_T » Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:17 pm

DB780 wrote:Yes whatever, lets hope he does not take the advise of someone who gets things wrong more often than not.
Well Said.

Wellies, as a new contributor (and a Club member?) please dont be of the opinion that this forum, or the Club, is for those who bicker amongst each other and enjoy the sound of their own web based voice, it is not!

Follow DB780's advice, he is a time served David Brown Mechanic/Fitter/Technician (Whatever the word is for them these days!!) He know's what he is on about, and has seen more of the internal workings of David Browns than many have had hot dinners, me included.

:)

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wellies
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Post by wellies » Sat May 04, 2013 8:37 pm

Well I missed all this drama :D

Anyway I ordered a repair kit and took the whole lot out and replaced all the o-rings and she now has no drips! (Well not from there anyway)

As I had bought the whole kit and due to inaccessibility it seemed sensible to change them all, and I think it was the smallest o-ring at the top of the shaft that was the culprit as it was very perished, however all of them looked very square if you know what I mean.

It ran perfectly for a good hour until a power steering pipe burst!

Thanks for the input all, nothing wrong with people having their own opinions/own way of doing things!

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wellies
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Post by wellies » Sat May 04, 2013 8:40 pm

DB 780, just re-read you post, I don't think you could replace the top one without removing the whole thing?

I had to remove a roll pin as the shaft only comes out of the bottom of the body, the only one that could be changed without removing the roll pin was the yellow plasticy one on the very bottom of the shaft

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DB780
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Post by DB780 » Sat May 04, 2013 8:54 pm

Yes, sorry I was thinking the 1594 was like the dump valves on Q cab tractors, 8's and 9's ect. They only have a R pin through that pin hole.

John_Allen
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Post by John_Allen » Sun May 05, 2013 12:03 am

Anyone can make a mistake (be they rare or regular). It takes guts to admit the mistake and good manners to apologise for it/them.

One thing is for sure, the rest of us now know of another difference between various models!

It would be interesting to know why the R clip was used on some models, but the annoying roll pin used on other Q-cabbed models. I can understand roll pins being used on earlier models, where the handle was close to the body, but it must be a heck of a lot easier and quicker to put an R clip in on the production line - even if they cost a little more.

Hmm, I suspect I have just answered the question!

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