Has anyone used K-Seal to try and rectify a cracked block?

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Boston
Posts: 60
Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:27 am
Location: Boston, Lincs

Has anyone used K-Seal to try and rectify a cracked block?

Post by Boston » Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:10 am

I have a Petrol / TVO block that is cracked externally & internally, can anyone recommend a product that I can put in the water to help to stop oil & water mixing?
The tractor isn't worked nor does it do road runs, but it is struck up a couple of times a year to lubricate etc.
I have been told about numerous products & K-Seal seems to get the most votes, what are other peoples experiences?
Many thanks
Paul

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bedwards1966
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Location: North Yorkshire

Post by bedwards1966 » Sat Mar 23, 2013 12:13 pm

I've used K seal and would highly recommend it. However, there is a limit to what can be achieved, is the water leaking into the oil or the oil into the water?
If it's the former you may be OK, but if oil is leaking straight into the water then it may struggle to stop that. It's one thing to stop a couple of psi leaking into air than against 40/50 ish psi of oil being forced into the water jacket.

Boston
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:27 am
Location: Boston, Lincs

Post by Boston » Sat Mar 23, 2013 1:21 pm

Luckily it is water getting into the oil and sending it milky.
I have a bottle of K-seal that is enough to treat 56 litres, I realise a TVO engine cooling system has about 18 litres capacity, so am I better off putting a third of it in or the lot and hope it does a better job???

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bedwards1966
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Post by bedwards1966 » Sat Mar 23, 2013 1:48 pm

I'd stick half of it in so you've got some spare. If it helps but doesn't completely cure it I'd try adding the rest, but I'd only expect to need half.

Guest

Post by Guest » Sat Mar 23, 2013 1:52 pm

You are wasting your time, money and effort in even attempting a repair to a cast engine block that is cracked both externally and internally as you will never stop it leaking completely or for any length of time. There are those that will tell you that it can be 'professionally' repaired but you will get no guarantee with it. What model is your damaged block on?

broadsword
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Post by broadsword » Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:07 pm

Hi Paul,

try this link here from an earlier topic - it is good stuff and cured a liner leak on my Cropmaster Diesel - I`d just stick the lot in - its not that exspensive so chuck the lot in and see - worth a go particulary as the old gals not used much.

http://www.dbtc.co.uk/index.php?name=PN ... ght=k+seal

Cheers

Andy

Scooby
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Post by Scooby » Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:29 pm

broadsword wrote:Hi Paul,
try this link here from an earlier topic - it is good stuff and cured a liner leak on my Cropmaster Diesel - I`d just stick the lot in - its not that exspensive so chuck the lot in and see - worth a go particulary as the old gals not used much.

http://www.dbtc.co.uk/index.php?name=PN ... ght=k+seal
Cheers
Andy
Ooooooooh. That's just the sort of thing that a disreputable car dealer would do. 8) Another of their tricks is Barsleaks in a radiator. :roll:
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Three is twee, four does snore, but 6 just clicks........Scooby

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WesBrown
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Location: Lancashire, Ribble Valley.

Post by WesBrown » Sat Mar 23, 2013 4:02 pm

If you only run it for a short while now and again for the sake of lubrication, then don't have any coolant in it. A couple of minutes running isn't going to harm it much.

Boston
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:27 am
Location: Boston, Lincs

Post by Boston » Sat Mar 23, 2013 4:30 pm

The engine is on a 1954 30T crawler, hence it is really only for display, the council take a dim view if I take it on a road run!
I must admit the last suggestion is favourable, I have a Trackmaster Diesel 50 crawler with a cracked block, I keep water in it, but let it out the sump plug before I run it. It acumulates about 1/2 pint a year while standing and if I let it out before running the oil stays clear.
Thanks for all your help, I'll put the reconditioned head on with a new gasket and give K seal a try.
I'll keep you posted on what happens.
Regards
Paul

Guest

Post by Guest » Sat Mar 23, 2013 7:40 pm

A block from a Cropmaster and all 25 and 30 series tractors is compatible if you have a desire to restore it.

Boston
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:27 am
Location: Boston, Lincs

Post by Boston » Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:50 pm

I am aware of that, it's just finding one!

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6-POT-PHIL
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Location: Huddersfield, W Yorks. (Home of David Brown Tractors)

Post by 6-POT-PHIL » Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:05 pm

I use K Seal all the time, its fantastic stuff and you will be amazed at what it can seal! Put the full bottle in and never look back!

Phil :D
1961 850 Implematic Ex DB test tractor (now sold)
1960 950 Implematic
1970 990 12 speed Selectamatic
1976 996 Loader tractor
1987 'E' 1594 4WD Hydra-Shift
1985 'C' 1694 4WD Hydra-Shift
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Six in line sounds mighty fine!!

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