Ebay engine block

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phills996
Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2011 12:47 pm
Location: Thwing East Yorkshire

Ebay engine block

Post by phills996 » Sat May 19, 2012 1:39 pm

Any views on this question please, We need a replacement block for a 996, and theres one on ebay, i asked the seller the question was the three main caps with the block,and the answer was no.
My question, would anyone know if the caps off our old block would be ok. Or is it what i am thinking that they would need to be line bored, Thanks Phill.

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odin
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RE: Ebay engine block

Post by odin » Sat May 19, 2012 2:20 pm

As far as I know, all blocks are manufactured with the caps, so the block is 'scrap' without caps. However, you could get lucky and your caps could be ok and not 'nip' the crank when assembling. Unfortunately, the caps could be 'slack' and unless you know how to use Plasti-Gauge and have sparecaps??
A bit high risk.

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richbug
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RE: Ebay engine block

Post by richbug » Sat May 19, 2012 4:42 pm

Your caps could be fitted it a competent machinist were to "line bore" them to match the new block.

Only way I would consider it.
Users: 780, 1210 Bottle Opener, 1494 4wd open station with 74L, 990, 1394, 1194 High Clearance, another 1394, 1194 LCG, 1290 with 56L, 900, 885 with LS8, 885, 1190

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bigdavesproule
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RE: Ebay engine block

Post by bigdavesproule » Sun May 20, 2012 8:13 am

as richbug says, get it line bored, involves griding a small ammount of your main caps and then assembling them at the correct torque without the crank in place and a specialised tool to re-machine the journals perfectly concentric and inline.
dave.

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WesBrown
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This block on ebay

Post by WesBrown » Sun May 20, 2012 11:11 am

Without the caps, this joker is selling scrap. As for line-boring using your own caps, forget it, it will cost hundreds. There's plenty of blocks around.

Guest

RE: This block on ebay

Post by Guest » Sun May 20, 2012 11:50 am

Technically there should be no need to have the original mains caps with an engine block as they are all machined to the same size. If it were the case then you would not be able to fit new 'off the shelf' bearing shells, you'd have to have them specially produced. It is only the conrod and caps that are 'matched' in their manufacture, not the big end caps. If you could still purchase a new engine block it would be supplied without the big end caps so all that has been said about re-machineing, line boreing etc is a complete myth and totally un-nessecary.

John_Allen
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RE: This block on ebay

Post by John_Allen » Sun May 20, 2012 1:33 pm

I must admit that I was under the impression that the caps were fitted to the new engine and then the lot line bored - I doubt that each cap would be perfectly identical (to the tolerances required) when cast and machined and am sure I'd seen pictures of the line boring machine in one of the DB books.

Of course, if they didn't need line boring, why bother to number the caps when stripping an engine down? I admit I've misread the marks on occasion and it's soon obvious that they aren't identical!

One last question: what it wrong with the old block (I guess frost damage) and could it be repaired by a good welder, fitting liners etc?

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phills996
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Post by phills996 » Sun May 20, 2012 3:43 pm

Yes John thats right, a long crack on the left side, due to frost damage, Neither Phill or me have yet found anyone who will take on this weld, we have only looked local so there is perhaps someone who would do this. The reason for the question was if a repair needs the engine to be taken out. another block may have been an easier way, .

sorepaws
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weld

Post by sorepaws » Sun May 20, 2012 5:47 pm

I`ll weld it for you, it`ll cost you 175 quid. done plenty of them.

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richbug
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Re: RE: This block on ebay

Post by richbug » Sun May 20, 2012 6:51 pm

Powerrabbit wrote:If you could still purchase a new engine block it would be supplied without the big end caps so all that has been said about re-machineing, line boreing etc is a complete myth and totally un-nessecary.

Wrong. main caps and block were supplied as an assembly. We inquired about them several times, but it was always cost prohibitive to buy one.

Line boring is not a Myth. I suppose you have never seen a broken 4/55 crank either???


K965168A, currently about $5300 US Block and caps have never been available separately.
Users: 780, 1210 Bottle Opener, 1494 4wd open station with 74L, 990, 1394, 1194 High Clearance, another 1394, 1194 LCG, 1290 with 56L, 900, 885 with LS8, 885, 1190

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Parts: 3800, 1200, 1394, 1412, 1490, 770, 885, 990SEL, Red 990I,

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phills996
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Post by phills996 » Sun May 20, 2012 7:22 pm

phills996 wrote:Yes John thats right, a long crack on the left side, due to frost damage, Neither Phill or me have yet found anyone who will take on this weld, we have only looked local so there is perhaps someone who would do this. The reason for the question was if a repair needs the engine to be taken out. another block may have been an easier way, .
Well i'm thinking the block option is most likly out. (on this one anyway) and will put quite a bit of thought into the welding, so we may take you up on that, You aint that far away.
Thanks.

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odin
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Post by odin » Sun May 20, 2012 8:47 pm

With modern engine blocks, the caps are part of the casting. To separate the cap from the block a sonic sound wave shock is used. Think about this method and it explains what lengths engine manufactures in the past must have gone to when pairing caps to blocks.
I can remember another apprentice whom I worked with back in the early 80's assembling a Ford 380 (6 cylinder). He got a couple of caps across but rather than put them right, he just kept turning the flywheel until he decided that it was 'free'. That lorry got half way to Scotland, about an hours motorway work and the crank snapped. Que cara!

Guest

Post by Guest » Sun May 20, 2012 8:55 pm

Okay, the general consensus is then that when needing or looking for a replacement engine block, the lesson to all is to make sure that the original main bearing caps are with it and the question as to wheather they are or not present should be asked and if the answer is no then look elsewhere until one with caps is found. Also anyone dismantling an engine to save and re-use the block or to sell it on, make sure you retain the main bearing caps and bolts.

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bigdavesproule
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Post by bigdavesproule » Mon May 21, 2012 12:42 pm

Powerrabbit wrote:Okay, the general consensus is then that when needing or looking for a replacement engine block, the lesson to all is to make sure that the original main bearing caps are with it and the question as to wheather they are or not present should be asked and if the answer is no then look elsewhere until one with caps is found. Also anyone dismantling an engine to save and re-use the block or to sell it on, make sure you retain the main bearing caps and bolts.

still convinced its a myth and un-necessary?

Guest

Post by Guest » Mon May 21, 2012 2:40 pm

Un-necessary to the point of others that I know that have fitted a replacement block using the original engine components, they've never had any subsequent problems. We don't all live in an ideal world.

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