David Brown Tractor Forum

Thanks for your reply. When the tractor passes 1300RPM the charging light extinguishes. As soon as the tractor returns to 1300RPM the light comes on again.

This new dynamo is labelled as 11amp. Does this sound correct for the tractor?

Just to keep you updated, I bought a brand new dynamo and regulator, polarised the dynamo, and fitted them both, but the charging light still won’t extinguish until 1300RPM. I removed an original dynamo from a 770, fitted it to the 880 and all was well. I removed that, re-fitted the new dynamo and t...

Thanks for the replies. The fan belt’s at the correct tension and the pulley was removed from the previous dynamo and put onto the new one. The problem with the original dynamo is that it seized while the tractor was working and the first I noticed was that the charging light came on and I saw the s...

I've fitted a new dynamo but now the charging light will only begin to extinguish at 1300rpm and will be fully-extinguished at 1600rpm. Any ideas why this is happening? On the previous dynamo the charging light would have disappeared at 800/900rpm. Many thanks.

I have a 1948 Cropmaster petrol/tvo. Last summer I changed the cork seal in the changeover tap due to a leak. Since then, whenever the tractor starts to pull uphill the engine stops. The tractor will then start again quite easily on the handle and will progress again up the hill for a few yards unti...

Solved! The o-ring was on the plunger.

Thank for your replies.

The plot thickens - I've now dismantled three spindles and have found no o-rings in any of them. So the mystery of how to stop the original leak remains. I think I'm missing something here...

Thanks for the replies. Where should that particular o-ring fit? I've removed the screwed bush and then the mills pin followed by the spindle, but there's no sign of the original o-ring, and I can't see where the new one should go.

Thanks.

Solved! On drilling out the alloy filler I could see that the grease nipple had snapped off sometime and the previous owner had left the broken piece in there and sealed the hole. I removed the broken piece, re-tapped, inserted a threaded insert followed by a new grease nipple.

The grease nipple has been sealed. For reference, I've attached a photo of the other final driveshaft on this tractor.

Will do! Thank-you!

I have an oil leak coming up the spindle when the valve's open, so I suspect the o-ring needs replacing, but will I have to drain the hydraulic oil before removing the spindle? I have a vision of the plunger flying out under pressure!

Thanks.

At some point in its history the grease nipple has been sealed shut. I'd like to put a grease nipple back there, but it doesn't look good. Do I have any options?

Thanks.

I used lint-free cloth to avoid fluff whilst cleaning the components.

Well, I did it. I didn't fancy it at all, but it bugged me that I was going to change the oil and main filter but not at least check the bypass filter (even though it was working). All has been reassembled and is working. The nylon filter was fine but I had to destroy it to remove it - it was stuck ...