David Brown Tractor Club Forum

An attachable counter weight is by far the best idea for a front end loader work. By mounting behind the rear axle it does what it is called, counter balances the tractor by moving the weight backwards and taking a small amount of weight off the front axle. This is what is normally done when a front...

Those were all very good answers. My only reservation is if it is contaminated and is it worth the cost and risk of making a mess of the pump and injectors. If it was me I would be very happy to use it for weed control and burn offs.

Hi Lofty, I operated Case backhoes for way too many years and all the time on tyres similar to what you have a link to. So a highway tread pattern will work and in muddy conditions I would also use the slewing brakes to help turn only IF needed and that was very rarely. Obviously with an all wheel d...

when running a front end loader it certainly is good practise to also have a counter balance. As explained the complete front end can be overloaded by not doing so. Id you can get 8ply tyres it would be better again. A simple counter balance can be made and attached to the 3pt linkage

Well done. Good to hear that all is well again.

Hi Ollek, I do understand what it is being said BUT the picture DOES NOT CLEARLY show that it is apart of the housing. I DID mention that a fuel line or cable covers that section of the picture. Hopefully that is clear as well!

let me try again, remove the glass bowl along with its housing by unscrewing it from the lift pump. Hopefully that makes it a bit clearer. Now I made that comment based on the pic supplied BUT if the glass bowl and housing does not unscrew from the lift pump then it cant be done can it! Bear in mind...

Sorry, I should have explained a bit better. What I meant was to move the glass bowl.

Has it solved the problem and was the old core blocked badly?

Another option if you dont want to use the correct part is to move the existing glass bowl set up to where it is out of the way. Obviously it will need to be mounted in a solid way but would still do the job.

Does sound like an adjustment issue with the clutch. Looking at the push rod on the slave cylinder it appears to be at an angle as well and also may be causing an issue.

Did you say you have had the slave cylinder apart and cleaned it? If so what is the length of the push rod or the distance from the front of the piston to near the end of the slave cylinder. You should be able to push the rod almost that length. If not look at the master cylinder.

Looks like good oil pressure right through the rev range. Return the faulty switch for one that works is the next best idea if you dont want to run the gauge.

It may have been a clip similar to what is used on CV boots. A metal clip that pushed through one end and was doubled over or as suggested a zip clip.

It makes a huge difference in how clean it actually does get. Commercial cleaning products only ever remove the loose stuff and tubes can still be blocked so it is a waste of money. Taking the tanks off gives clear access to all the tubes and if they are a bit stubborn a flexible strip is pushed thr...