David Brown Tractor Forum

Hi McSpud Sorry - it's been weeks since I last looke at this site...I have been working stupid hours :( The JI manuals are "generic" manuals, and not 100% accurate. You won't "go wrong" with them; but you can make a lot morte work than is really necessary on some models... Your 1390 cabbed model spl...

As Jim suggests, this is looking like an oil presure issue. It can be various causes, and much depends on an ACCURATE report of the symptoms! Please do the following test, and be as clear as possible in your report; Hitch the tractor to a rolling load - a trailer or similar, and stay on flattish gro...

In the absence of our resident experts giving better advice, can I suggest you contact the DVLA ? Google it!

INdeed!! Maybe 'coz you were busy!?!?

At least in the second "clip" the driver wasn't being a prat with the hydrashift, and the trailer was most probably better loaded.....

Remove the lift-pump from the engine. Tilt it drive-downwards and reconnect it to the pipework. Prime it and pressurise it by pumping by hand. Wipe up any mess you made, then check the area the next morning. Even the smallest hole in the diaphragm will allow fuel to leak out overnight and fall onto ...

RLD and Son?? Excelcent. ( Do as they say! :) Used them - and Mallinson's ( are they still going in Wigton? ) many times. Bernie, approach any half-decent hydraulic (manu)factor and ask them for phosphour-bronze bushes of the size you want. DB only ever used industry-standard sizes in yokes and pins...

Hi TD After taking Erkki's sound advice above; remove the old o-ring and leave it in one of your "normal temperature rooms" over night; it will assume its standard dimentions when not under stress. ( Don't we all!!!!!!! :D:D ) It will, however, be the lip seal that is causing your leakage problem - ...

Heat is normal, but - to be honest - if it's way too hot to touch I might be concerned in a DB power-steering system. The pump should make a gentle hum, or "buzz", if you can hear it above the engine noise. You are unlikely to have done anything wrong with the orbitrol valve that would cause what yo...

It could just be the angle of the photo; but the new owner could have got himself a "roughish" 2WD machine...

Let me qualify the above post... Have you ascertained the reason for the "pick up" on B1 ? On B2 or 3 I might share your optimism; but not 1 or 4 as they have exclusive feed from M1 or M3. The oil-feed gallery in the crank is unlikely to have solidified beyond the last few microns; it will merely be...

Good luck!

Hoi Jonathan!! Glad things are progressing well! Sorry, yes, UNC will not be freely available over there... A way around this is to use 2 of the block-to-frame bolts and put them in the flange of the block as you lower it to the frame. As soon as you can, screw them into the frame a few turns, and l...

I have never done this - I don't think it should be necessary really. Once torqued down, the head forms an intergral "part" of the block; it is sealed to it, and expands/contracts with it. If the head and block are the same temperature upon fitting, then this is the only step required, assuming the ...

I seem to think that the 1594 had a torque of 100lbs? In any case, it is important to tighten them in steps of, say, 40 - 80 - 100, to fully destress the head. I'm sure there are plenty of folk who have done it "in one go" or maybe two, with "no problems"; but it pays to give the right advice :) As ...

Smear the faces of the mainframe/block gasket with any non-hardening sealant. Make 2 x 3/8 inch UNC studs ( bolts without heads ) about 50mm long and screw them into 2 holes in the mainframe ( on opposite sides ) to make sure you lower the block onto the mainframe squarely and without disturbing the...